13 Prairie Wind Road

Are you ready for a Cowboy’s vacation? Why not take a cowboy vacation on one of the many Texas dude ranches. Just think riding a horse western saddle over the plains, across the streams and over the mountains. If fresh air and wide open spaces is what you are hankering for a dude ranch may be just for you! Are you ready for the perfect experience? Let me tell you a tale….

Jumping into my western wear pulling on my cowboy boots and putting on my hat, causes my blood to stir. Today is my first time in a bunk house but I’m not alone. There are fifteen other greenhorns or tender foots with me. Most of my comrades are city folk. Sure we’ve all seen a horse but it was on TV or at the parade. Today we get to experience the real thing. The question that flashes through my mind is whether I am ready to learn to saddle that wild snorting beast.

The door opens and in steps the lead hand. He says “the first order of business today is to head of to the corral for a lesson on saddling our horses.” So off we go. I look for the smallest beast I can find who’s over in the far side of the corral. Yup that one’s for me. As I tip my hat and approach the small gray mare grazing at the feed trough I’m a little surprised.

Well actually it’s more like I’m shocked. That small gray mare stands over a foot taller than me. Wow! now what to do. After all who am I kidding, I’m no cowboy. But with some help I managed to saddle the monster. Swinging up into the saddle my mind drifts to a western movie with me as the trail boss setting off on a cattle drive.

Suddenly with the movement of my steed I instantly come back to my senses to realize this beautiful beast is walking out of the corral and I’m about to experience my first adventure. After many miles of riding along a cool grassy plain our group of tender foots comes upon a small steam. Perfect, it’s time for a rest.

I swing out of my saddle. My legs and rear end feel like they’ve had had the flesh peeled right off of them. The excruciating pain leaves me moving pretty slow. It seems to take an eternity to be able to sit down on the cool grass. Wow I must be a wuss I think. Even with my aching body I feel an exhilaration like I’ve not ever felt before.

Looking at the other riders it appeared that they too had suffered this same fate. Yet even with this new found pain there is a smile of contentment on all the tender foots faces. As we stretch out and relax we realize the power of nature that is forgotten in the city.

My wild snorting beast is down at the stream drinking water with the other horse. After the horses have a rest it’s time to get back on the trail. Mounting my horse was as pain full as the dismount was and I cringe as I struggle into place.

My gray mare refreshed from her break was ready to go. But with each step we took on the slow ride back I was reminded of the tremendous beating my back side was taking. The chaffing of the in side of the legs were almost as bad. I was certain I was going to be a raw piece of meat by the time we returned. Looking back at the old cowboy who was our guide I saw a relaxed toughen real cowboy. I wondered how it took him to toughen up.

Back at camp after a slow dismount and some slow stretches it was time to find some grub. Funny by the time we sat down to a heaty meal the soreness had began to pass and each of us was looking forward to the next days adventure. Perhaps it didn’t take that long to toughen us city folks up afterall.

Conversation was hearty and load at the table as we busily exchanged ideas about our first day as a cowboy on the trails. There was excitement, pride, and an over all feeling of accomplishment. So this is how the real cowboy’s felt after a day on the range. Perhaps there really was something missing in city life.

By the end of my vacation the gray wild snorting horse turned out to be my greatest companion on all our daily rides. The name of the gray is Calaway. If you ever get the chance to ride this horse you will be pleased with her steady but gentle manor. Even my red western wear shirt, tan boots and my large white hat never spooked her. After all she is used to carrying and caring for plenty of want to be cowboys and cowgirls giving each a story and adventure all of their own.

If you ever get a chance to take a cowboy vacation on a Texas Dude Ranch you should. I guarantee you will not be disappointed! It will be one of the best experiences you’ll ever have, leaving you with the memory of light blowing summer breezes, soft scented wild flowers, deep blue crystal clear water, and gently sloping mountain trails.

The life of a cowboy may be filled with hard work but it’s a lifestyle that no other can compete with. There are few cowboys that would be willing to give it up. For just a couple of weeks you too can enjoy the life of a cowboy.

About The Author

Tom Strayhorn is one of the few real cowboys left so why not saddle up and come visit him at http://www.cowboys-n-campfires.com/

Looking for a great mango smoothie Try a Southwestern Mango Smoothie. The mango goes west for this variation of the popular fruit smoothie drink. Mangoes are becoming more common in the U.S. and other western countries and this is the perfect smoothie for all you mango lovers.

This Southwestern Mango Smoothie uses lush tropical fruits. Instead of the mango, you can use either papaya or guava. Add a banana and yum. This is a simple way to get your mango on!

Southwestern Mango Smoothie 1/2 cup banana, sliced 2 cups milk 1/2 cup mango, papaya, or guava 1 tablespoon honey

Directions

Use only one kind of tropical fruit mango, papaya or guava above.

Place all ingredients in food processor. Cover and process on high speed until smooth. Strain if using mango.

About The Author

Copyright 2004 Donna Monday Easy to make – fun to drink http://www.1st-milkshake-n-smoothie-recipes.com

Summer may begin in June but, for many parts of the country, gardens don’t reach their peak until August. Modern grocery stores manage to keep us satisfied with produce year round, but there is nothing like the flavor of farm fresh tomatoes, peaches, or sweet corn. And there is nothing like the experience of buying from local growers who are proud of their wares.

The first farmers’ markets started over a century before the Declaration of Independence. Since then, it has become an American tradition to buy fresh produce, flowers, eggs and cheese from markets and roadside stands. In the beginning, farmers would brave muddy roads in their horse-drawn wagons. As time went on, farmers made the weekly trek to town in pick-ups, where they’d pile bushels of fruit and vegetables high on the tailgate of their trucks. Today, many lucky city dwellers visit markets that are open every day.

My favorite though, is our county farmers’ market held on the courthouse grounds. It’s open only on Saturday mornings, and only June - October. It may sound inconvenient but, for my family, it’s a summer ritual. We wake early and arrive disheveled, rarely taking the time to comb through our hair. For breakfast, we buy scones from our favorite bread stand and snatch up the best looking fruit we see. My son is an expert at choosing “chin dripping” peaches, always looking for the most fragrant and the heaviest peach that can sit in the palm of his small hand. My husband lounges on the grass and watches the people go by as I scribble a list of what is available, anticipating the culinary treats that only summer brings. There is nothing like fresh corn on the cob, cold gazpacho with homegrown tomatoes, or homemade fruit sorbet. We always have a batch of sorbet on hand, each week a different flavor. Sometimes we experiment by combining fruit with fresh herbs, but most of the time we simple puree 2 cups of fruit with a little citrus juice and a bit of honey, and then freeze it in an ice cream maker. My boys and their friends think it’s a decadent treat.

Summer vacation is about to end, and our weekly ritual will soon give way to soccer games and birthday parties. Lucky for me, the farmers will be back next year with their trucks piled high, just as they’ve done for generations.

MARKET FRESH FRUIT DIP

This makes a terrific afternoon snack on a warm summer’s day. When entertaining, serve in a honeydew melon half and decorate the rim with fresh blueberries and mint sprigs.

Ingredients 1 Pint Strawberries 2 Teaspoons Lemon Juice 3 Tablespoons Honey 4 oz Cream Cheese, Room Temperature 1 Cup Plain Yogurt

Assorted Fruit Slices

Directions

1. Wash the strawberries and remove the green tops.

2. Place strawberries in a blender or food processor with lemon juice, honey, cream cheese, and yogurt. Puree until smooth.

3. To make a honeydew melon bowl, cut the melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Slice a 3 inch diameter circle off the rounded bottom of the rind so your bowl will sit flat.

4. Serve with slices of your favorite summer fruit. Peaches, plums, apples, and melons all work well and make a colorful presentation.

Copyright 2004 Nine Twenty Press

You have permission to reprint this article electronically or in print, free of charge, provided that each article is: Printed in its full form with no changes Includes an active link A courtesy copy of your publication is sent to the above contact And the following byline appears at the bottom of each article:

About The Author

Rondi Hillstrom Davis and Janell Sewall Oakes are the co-authors of the award-winning book Together: Creating Family Traditions. To check out their website thats jam packed with family ideas, visit http://togetherparenting.com. info@togetherparenting.com

What is nicer that a lovely backyard garden pond. The lush growth rising above the water, graceful fish darting about and the soothing sound of the water. These are just a few of the reasons people are drawn to water gardens.

But when you think about adding a water feature to your garden, you are torn, because you know that a charming pond can also be a mosquito hatchery. And, everyone is concerned; rightly, about mosquitoes and the diseases they spread.

It is true, mosquitoes do need water to breed, but at the same time, there are so many effective ways to prevent mosquitoes from breeding in ponds, you should not let that stop you. Water gardeners are in a unique position; they can have wet spaces that can actually help stop mosquitoes from breeding.

Just a few simple precautions are all you need to feel safe and enjoy such a wonderful addition to the landscape.

If you have a water garden, or want one, try these suggestions.

Have moving water in your water garden. Mosquitoes will not lay eggs in running water. The newly hatched mosquito must rest on the water’s surface for a few minutes to let its wings dry. If the water is moving, the female mosquito will not lay eggs there.

Get some mosquito fish for your pond. Mosquito fish, or gambusia affinis, are very aggressive predators of mosquito larvae. They are also aggressive to other fish and will also eat dragonfly larvae, or nymphs. If mosquito fish are too predatory for your particular tastes, several other types of fish readily consume mosquito larvae, such as guppies, killifish, and small goldfish. Koi are too large and will not target the larvae.

Add Bti to your pond. Bti is a naturally occurring type of bacillus that is eaten by the mosquito larvae, and rapidly kills them. It is not harmful to fish, pets, wildlife or humans. It is sold under such names as Mosquito Dunks, or Mosquito Bits.

Add dragonfly larvae, or nymphs, to your pond. They are voracious predators of mosquito larvae, and while the mosquito larvae stay in that stage for only a few days, the dragonfly nymphs stay in the larval stage for up to two years, and can prey on many generations of mosquito larvae. And, when they become adults, the dragonfly feeds on adult mosquitoes too.

Invite toads into your yard. One toad can consume up to 100 mosquitoes and slugs per night. They lay their eggs in water, so the pond will attract them. If happy with its environment, a toad can grace your garden for up to 20 years. And the tadpoles will eat mosquito larvae also.

As an overall precaution, get a propane powered mosquito trap, such as the Mosquito Magnet, to reduce the mosquito population in your garden area. These are the most effective mosquito killers around, and they will capture and kill the mosquitoes that your natural controls miss.

With the growing concern about mosquito diseases, like West Nile virus, malaria, and dengue fever, it is natural to feel reluctance to add any water source around your home. With the right precautions, you can beautify your garden and still feel secure that you are not inviting mosquitoes into your immediate environment.

If water gardening appeals to you, just educate yourself, take the needed precautions, and get ready to enjoy the beauty and serenity a water feature adds to your home.

About The Author

Scottie Johnson is a life long mosquito warrior and freelance author. For more detailed information about mosquito kill and having a mosquito free life, please visit her website at www.mosquito-kill-net.com.

Copyright 2004, all rights reserved.

This article may be duplicated for use provided all biographical information and web links are preserved.

article@mosquito-kill-net.com

About the Author

David G. Hallstrom, Sr. is a retired private investigator and is currently the publisher of several internet directories, including http://www.usacitydirectories.com a directory of national, state, county and city guides and directories listing local guides, directories, web sites and web pages providing resources, services and information.

About the Author

Resource Box: © A.O. Kime (2003) A.O. Kime is an author of two books plus some 70 articles on ancient history, spiritual phenomena, political issues, social issues and agriculture which can be seen at http://www.matrixbookstore.biz

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Scottie Johnson is a life long mosquito warrior, freelance author and organic gardener. For all the information you need about killing and repelling mosquitoes, visit her site at http/www.mosquito-kill-net.com

About the Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books "Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)" (trade paperback; July 2003) and "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam" (trade paperback; October 2004) and "Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Interviewing Family Members and Writing Oral Histories) (e-book; April 2004). http://ruralroute2.com

Later on, however, after I had graduated from high school and started traveling around the United States, I was hard-pressed to meet anyone who had ever been on a dairy farm, much less lived on one. People would ask me where I was from and when I told them Wisconsin, they’d say, “I suppose you lived on a dairy farm.”

After a while, it became clear to me that for people in other states, ‘Wisconsin’ and ‘dairy farm’ were synonymous. I would explain that not everyone in Wisconsin lives on a dairy farm, and then I would find myself answering questions about what it was like growing up on a farm.

Today, most of the small family dairy farms like the one where I grew up are gone. My parents milked 20 cows, but farmers can no longer make a living that way. Milk prices have essentially stayed the same since the 1970s, and many small farmers decided to sell their dairy herds when their business expenses ended up exceeding their gross farm income year after year.

Even though most of the small family farms have disappeared, the evidence that they once existed remains—in the empty dairy barns scattered around the countryside—in the pastures that have been turned into residential subdivisions—in the creameries that have been abandoned or converted into other uses.

And in my stories about growing up on a Wisconsin dairy farm.

My books "Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)" (July 2003) and "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam" (October 2004) each contain 20 true stories about growing up on a family farm 40 years ago. Christmas in Dairyland includes a number of family recipes (lefse; sugar cookies; bon-bons; Christmas bread; fattigman; and several others). Both books are appropriate for readers of all ages.

Christmas in Dairyland -- Celebrate Christmas during a simpler time 40 years ago when happiness was baking cookies, decorating the Christmas tree, or even just getting out of wearing snow boots to school.

Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam -- Stories set on a small family dairy farm in Wisconsin 40 years ago at a time when small family farms still dotted the countryside and summertime meant learning to drive the tractor, making ice cream, and riding a pony to the hayfield.

Here are what some of my readers are saying about the books:

I have to tell you I feel a little sad. Just read the LAST page of "Give me a home where the dairy cows roam." I enjoyed every word. . .I wish your book went on forever . . .now, bring on "Cream of the Crop!" I'll be waiting! Anita(Wisconsin)

I really have enjoyed both of your books so much! As I mentioned before, this is my life between the covers of your book and it really takes me back to the good life we had growing up. Your father sounds like he was a very compassionate and caring individual, as my father was and I think most small-time farmers were: always putting their family and cows first. I also loved all your haying stories, as I could also relate to all of your events. Well done and I look forward to your next book! Carol (Massachusetts)

I have read both of your books ("Christmas in Dairyland" and "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam")and thoroughly enjoyed all the stories! I think my favorite is the one when you FINALLY got your horse, Dusty. What a wonderful writer you are, as I feel like I'm right there with you on all of your adventures! My mother-in-law loved the books, also. Keep up the good work! Looking forward to more books! Danielle (Indiana)

I'm in the middle of reading "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam." I also enjoyed reading "Christmas in Dairyland" You know how to make the reader feel like we are right there. When is your next book coming out? Carol (Nebraska)

Visit http://ruralroute2.com to find out how to order "Christmas in Dairyland" and "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam."

More Books About Farms:

Books that are appropriate for younger readers (ages 4 to 8) include:

"Living on Farms" (Allan Fowler; 2000)

"Moonstruck: The Story of the Cow Who Jumped Over the Moon" (Gennifer Choldenko; 1997)

Another book that tells more about the country lifestyle is "Country Style: Living the Farm Life" (Doris Stensland; 2004)

Here are some other classic books of true stories that relate to country life and farm life:

"All Things Wise and Wonderful" (James Herriot; 1998)

"All Creatures Great and Small" (James Herriot; 1998)

"The Lord God Made Them All" (James Herriot; 1998)

"Every Living Thing" (James Herriot; 1993)

"James Herriot's Dog Stories" (James Herriot; 1990)

"James Herriot's Cat Stories" (James Herriot; 1994)

"Once Upon a Farm" (Lois Stark; 1992)

"Farmer Boy" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"On the Banks of Plum Creek" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"By the Shores of Silver Lake" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"Little House on the Prairie" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"Little House in the Big Woods" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"The Long Winter" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"Little Town on the Prairie" (Laura Ingalls Wilder; 1953)

"The Land Remembers" (Ben Logan; 25th Anniversary edition; 1999)

"One Room Country School" (Jerry Apps; 1996)

"Barns of Wisconsin" (Jerry Apps; 2001)

"Humor from the Country" (Jerry Apps; 2001)

"Rural Wisdom: Time-Honored Values of the Midwest" (Jerry Apps; 1997)

"Every Farm Tells a Story" (Jerry Apps; March 2005)

Country Ways and Country Days: From Windvanes and Tractors to Auctions and Outhouses: Remembering Rural Life (Jerry Apps; July 2005)

"Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition" (Jerry Apps; April 1998)

"When Chores Were Done" (Jerry Apps; January 1999)

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books "Christmas in Dairyland" and "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam." http://ruralroute2.com

Organic farming is the production of food using all natural methods - avoiding all synthetic chemicals and genetically modified organisms. Its' core philosophy is that of sustainability or 'zero impact'. The organic farmer seeks to leave the earth in its' natural state after the harvest.

The focus of organic methods is on soil quality. Crops are grown without artificial fertilizers and pesticides, and livestock is reared free of drugs and hormones. Proponents of organic food believe it produces food with higher quality and nutritional value than conventional chemical-based methods.

Many countries including the US and the EU have certification programs to control the use of the term "Organic". This benefits the consumer by ensuring best practice has been followed. This varies from region to region but includes things like the minimum length of time a field can be left free of chemicals before it is allowed to be used for organic farming.

There are many different styles of organic food production but they all adhere to the same principles:

* no artificial fertilizers or drugs * no genetically modified organisms * prevention of soil depletion * 'bio diversity' - the growing of a range of crops not just a single species.

One recent researcher found that vegetables in the 1950s contained more than eight times as many trace elements as modern crops, which he attributed to the excessive use of nitrate fertilizers. You can read all the latest research at http://www.ge-free.com/

Organic farming has come about as a consumer reaction against the chemical based methods that have been used so widely in 20th century food production. Really though it is simply a formalized definition of traditional agriculture as it has been practiced for thousands of years before 20th century chemicals were invented.

So far, organic farming has been limited to small businesses growing for local markets. Organic farming methods are very expensive compared to their chemical counterparts, and the production yields are low when compared to 'conventional' farming.

Consumers of course are willing to pay a premium for the improved flavor and nutrition value of organic produce but it remains a premium market. This will change as more large scale organic producers enter production.

Most countries now have 'all organic' type food stores in the larger cities. So long as there are people who enjoy healthy living and an alternative to the chemical ridden norm, these businesses will continue to flourish.

Jeremy is the owner of http://www.ge-free.com/ and publisher of Organic News. His site reports on all the latest news and research articles to do with Organic Food.

About the Author

Shauna Hanus is a gourmet cook who specializes in creating gourmet meal plans. She has extensive experience cooking with easy to find grocery items to create delightful gourmet meals. She is also the publisher of a no cost bi-monthly gourmet newsletter. Her newsletter is always fun and informational packed with tips and trivia you can use everyday. http://www.gourmayeats.com

About the Author

This finance article was written by Groshan Fabiola, who is a proffesional writter since 1990. If you want to know more about farm loans and farm mortgages please visit http://www.farmloans.com/

I was in the garden playing a guitar that attracted the attention of a small bird. It positioned itself overhead in the willow tree and proceeded to drop caterpillars from the leaves onto my head - feeding me as a reward for the music. It made me wonder how much wild or farm animals might like music.

The photographs here evidence an impromptu harmonica concert given to a field of bullocks. I played No Place Like Hometo the lead bullock, who warmed up gradually and called his mates over for a gander. I positioned myself safely in the hedgerow, well out of reach in case they should mob me in their fervour for the music. Slowly the moshing pit formed as they edged in to listen.

They nodded along to Frere Jacques keeping surprisingly accurate tempo with their tails. It was not until I played Going to Alabama with a Banjo on my Knee that a couple of them started dancing, doing a little shimmy with their front hooves that was very similar to the dance Hank Marvin and the Shadows used to do.

With As the Saints Come Marching On one of them peeled out for a little canter round the field. Yes it was getting hot and the temperature was rising. These wonderful bovines were so appreciative of music and gave me a bigger audience and better reception than I received in the village.

When I played a Blues Train Coming piece a couple of them started mooing, providing startling animal lyrics in accompaniment. I played some music from a 'Simply Red' song and they rushed forwards aggressively, pawing the ground.

Farm animals really enjoy music and even if you play the simplest instrument you will find an appreciative and uncritical audience with sheep, cows, bullocks or horses. Just remember to position yourself carefully out of reach or you may get mobbed.

Flushed with success I performed the set again by the pond on the way home and attracted a crowd of what must have been 100,000 gnats who swirled in time, particularly liking the D#, so much so that they flew into the harmonica, blocking the notes.

No responsibility for any injuries incurred by anyone undertaking this activity are accepted by this author.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Secrets of Creativity is a revolutionary new ebook from top internet author Simon MitchellThis ebook provides you with a concise, structured course to improve personal creativity.Preview Secrets of Creativity at this address:http://www.simonthescribe.co.uk/secrets.html

About the Author

#18, Nijverheidsweg Loas NL / US/767132 +31-546-564926 /hmsblrnub005@yahoo.com

About the Author

Pam, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com Leave your email next to the logo for FREE e travel newsletter.

About the Author

Dude Ranch is a comprehensive guide to dude ranches in the USA, providing information on popular dude ranch tourist destinations as well as dude ranch employment opportunities. E-DudeRanch.com presents an accessible interface where users can determine what type of dude ranch experience would be best for them.

About the Author

Cymber Quinn - Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com

About the Author

Dude Ranch Info provides informatino on dude ranches in Colorado, Texas, Montana, Wyoming, Arizona, and California, and information on dude ranch jobs. Dude Ranch Info is the sister site of Mountain Vacations Web.

About the Author

John Ross, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com Leave your email next to the logo for FREE e travel newsletter.

About the Author

Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com

About the Author

Dude Ranch is a comprehensive guide to dude ranches in the USA, providing information on popular dude ranch tourist destinations as well as dude ranch employment opportunities. E-DudeRanch.com presents an accessible interface where users can determine what type of dude ranch experience would be best for them.

The idea of picking up a horses hooves can intimidate some owners since a well-placed horse kick would really hurt! Such caution is good, but in reality if you pick up a horses hoof properly you provide him with no leverage or ability to kick you. This is a situation where a persons worst fears can cause him to imagine an incident that is highly unlikely to occur with careful handling.

Heres how to safely pick up a horses hoof:

Starting with the front hoof, approach your horse diagonally from his front so that he clearly knows you are there – you dont want to surprise him. Place yourself even with his shoulder and make sure to face his rear; you will both be facing opposite directions during the hoof picking process.

Making sure that your feet arent too close to the horses hoof, start running the hand parallel to him down his shoulder and along the length of his leg, finally stopping just above his ankle. Gently grasp the ankle portion and click or otherwise verbally cue him to ask him to raise his leg. If hes well trained, that small cue will be more than enough and hell do just what you requested. Youre now free to begin picking his hoof.

If your horse is being a bit stubborn or hasnt learned how to pick up his legs yet try leaning into his shoulder as you run your hand down the back of his cannon bone. You can also gently squeeze/pinch the tendons to further cue him to what you would like. As you perform these physical cues make sure you provide a verbal one also I make a clicking sound so the horse later associates your sound with the requested response. Increase the weight you push against his shoulder until he finally lifts his leg as requested.

When picking a horses hoof you want to remove all debris from the hoof clefts as well as the rim and frog. Be careful around the frog because it can sometimes be a bit sensitive, particularly if the horse has thrush.

Once you have finished cleaning the front hoof carefully guide it back to the floor; you dont want to allow the horse to slam it, potentially hitting your foot in the process. Praise your horse and pat him on the front shoulder a bit so he understands that you are pleased with his cooperation, then run your hand along his back to his rear leg. Place yourself in the same position as you did with his front leg and do the process over again.

There is a slight difference between lifting a rear foot and front foot, even though your basic positioning and actions are nearly identical. When you lift your horses rear foot he will probably give a little jerk that you might misinterpret as a kick. This is a common reflex reaction among horses and nothing for you to worry about.

Secondly, when you raise your horses rear leg youll want to step into him a bit so that your hip is underneath his leg. Rest his leg on your thigh, grab his hoof and gently flex it upwards. By doing this you lend him some support and more importantly the position of his leg and his flexed hoof will prevent him from being able to kick you.

Clean the hoof, lower it cautiously as you did the first and praise him. Congratulations – youre halfway done! The opposite side will be done exactly the same way, but try to return to his front and start the opposite side rather than move around his rear. Its bad practice to approach or circle all but the most trusted horses via the rear in such close quarters since a horse would be within range to strike.

When lifting any hoof try to make sure your horse is properly squared balanced evenly on all four legs so that when you lift one hoof he can easily balance on his remaining three. At no time should the horse actually lean his weight on you! Even when you rest his rear leg on your thigh youre not allowing him to use you as a crutch.

Once you have picked your horses hooves a few times it will probably become very simple and take less than 5 minutes to clear all hooves. Most trained horses will raise their hoof for you the moment they feel your leg run down their leg.

It is a very good idea to control your horses head while you are picking his hooves. This can be done by attaching his halter to crossties or asking a partner hold your horses head. By controlling his head you ensure your horse cant move away from you while youre trying to pick his hooves, or worse… turn around and take a bite at your rear!

Visit http://www.alphahorse.com/horse-care.html to view other articles pertaining to horse care.

About The Author

Jeffrey Rolo, owner of AlphaHorse and an experienced horse trainer and breeder, is the author of the above article. You will find many other informational articles dealing with horse training and care as well as games and other horse fun on his website: http://www.alphahorse.com

Copyright © 2004 AlphaHorse. All Rights Reserved.

webmaster@alphahorse.com

In the dating world many men and women put their potential partners to a "dog test," whereby they introduce their date to their dog and see how the dog reacts to the stranger. If the dog reacts badly towards their date then a red flag is waved, whereas if the dog accepts the stranger instantly the opposite holds true. While many people look upon this test in a tongue-in-cheek manner, many dog owners actually do take it seriously. As they probably should!

Many animals, including horses, possess an uncanny ability to detect emotion as well as the inner nature of an individual. Whereas you may be able to slap a forced smile on your face and hide powerful negative emotions such as stress or anger from fellow humans, you wont find it as easy to fool a horse! In fact I consider horses to be natural truth detectors due to their ability to read a persons emotional state as well as their sincerity when it comes to a love for equines.

If one of my naturally friendly horses takes an instant dislike to someone out of the blue, 9 times out of 10 Im going to respect my equine partners instincts. Horses generally do not possess vendettas or have reason to target anyone for no real reason – they tend to call them as they see them. If a horse usually takes a liking to visitors but holds a sudden aversion to one in particular, clearly the horse sees or detects something that I may not have initially caught.

When a horse enjoys your company, youll know it. When a horse trusts you, youll know it. And when a horse actually dislikes you, he will make sure you know it. I often state that the world would be a much better place if people were as brutally honest as horses. But I digress…

A proficient horseman at work should be cool, calm and collected, three essential qualities to maximize the productivity of a training session as well as create an all-around positive aura over human-horse interactions. Keep in mind that you are the horses leader, and as such the horse will take his cues from you. If you are agitated the horse will recognize something is wrong and either feel you are angry with him or you are annoyed with something else he cannot detect but probably should be also be concerned about. The horse will not be able to focus on the lesson or your requests well at all, nor will he be able to draw strength from you when he becomes concerned about a foreign object or behavioral request.

It is essential that you try not to visit or work with your horse when you are in a negative frame of mind since these undesirable emotions will disturb your equine partner. Try to take a few minutes, or even hours if necessary, to collect your emotions and clear your mind of lifes daily irritants.

When we see a loved one is feeling down, it often puts a damper on our day too since negativity tends to breed negativity. The same will happen with your horse, so do not underestimate your horses ability to detect your feelings.

Visit http://www.alphahorse.com/horse-training.html to view other articles pertaining to horse training.

About The Author

Jeffrey Rolo, owner of AlphaHorse and an experienced horse trainer and breeder, is the author of the above article. You will find many other informational articles dealing with horse training and care as well as games and other horse fun on his website: http://www.alphahorse.com

Copyright © 2004 AlphaHorse. All Rights Reserved.

webmaster@alphahorse.com

In the animal kingdom there is a pecking order. Richard Shrake points out that it’s a lot like the military. He ranks in the pecking order go from General down to Private. The General will get first pick of the food, decide where to go and when, and so on.

The “second in command” will act just like the General but he won’t pick on the General because the General dominates him. This string of command continues all the way down to the bottom of the pecking order. Any time a new animal comes into the group then the pecking order shifts. Knowing this information, you can use it to your advantage. You can make yourself the leader in the horse’s eyes. He’ll look to you for instruction. He’ll obey you.

If you have a dominant horse it will be instinct for him to let a more dominant being make the decisions. In this case the dominant being will be you. You will become leader by using your body language to show you are confident. Being dominant doesn’t mean you’re being aggressive.

On the other hand, if your horse is the General, you may have to be more assertive. Make sure your horse doesn’t think you’re a threat. It’s easy to come across as threatening when you’re being assertive. If your horse feels threatened he’ll fight back and you can’t win. And if you are doing horse training, you will find it hard to get results.

In the wild, dominant and aggressive horses will make their bodies tight and make sudden moves with fury while getting into the other horse’s space. The weaker horse will concede and move out of his space. Think of it as the General screaming an order and the Private is obeying.

Slow movements tend to draw one horse to another. Horses express calmness with relaxed, slow steps. This is how they welcome other horses in their space.

If a horse is trying to show you he’s the General you may see a clamped-down tail with pinned ears. To get him to accept you as the General you will move him out of his space. You do this by matching any quick moves he makes with your own quick moves. The trick is to make the first strike before he does.

One way to do this is with a quick arm movement towards him – almost like you’re violently shooing away some pesky flies. Also, you can use an aggressive tone of voice towards a horse if he’s being aggressive.

How can you tell if he’s conceding to you If he turns his head or drops it, relaxes his tail, begins chewing, or takes a deep breath, then that’s how you know. If any of these happen he’s saying, “Okay, I’ll do what you say because I want to listen to you.” Pay attention to these clues that tell you your horse is in the Private mode the follower instead of the General mode.

When you go into the round pen to work with your horse first check to see how he responds to you. If he rubs his head on you or swings his rear end toward you then he’s challenging your position in the pecking order. If you’re with a horse that’s not dominant you want to make sure he has confidence. Thus, be very careful not to be threatening.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Was he the worlds greatest horse trainer of all time Would his picture be in the horse trainers Hall Of Fame Perhaps.

His name was Jesse Beery. Before he was twenty he became a world class horse trainer. He was so well known, there were more people who heard of him than didnt.

Jesse Beery learned how to train horses almost entirely on his own because there were few people who knew how to train a horse.

Beerys parents discouraged horse training as a career but later okayd his passion. From then on there was no stopping Beery from achieving greatness.

Beerys first inclination to train horses happened when he drove a horse and buggy to a friends house. As Beery exited the buggy the horse spooked and ran home. During that long walk home Beery was determined to make his horse stay put.

As he worked with his horse he discovered ways to get a horse to do what he wanted. Although nearly killed in training incidents and laughed at from friends and neighbors, Beery soon became THE authority on horse training.

Beerys methods solved numerous problems with horses that seemed unsolvable. If a horse was hard to shoe, ran away, pulled while tied, spooky, and more...Beery knew how to fix it.

As if his accomplishments werent enough to keep him busy, Beery wrote a Horse Training manual describing how to do what he did. Unfortunately, few copies exist today and those that do may be hard to read due to the poor condition of these very old books.

Beerys book may be available in used book stores if one is motivated to search. Be prepared for a time consuming search - but if a Beery book is found in good condition, be ready to pay a handsome price.

There may be an alternative. Beerys book was recently revived by horse trainer Andy Curry. Curry discovered Beerys book in a used book store by accident.

Curry says, "This is one of the most amazing books Ive EVER read about horse training. Beery explains his methods so clearly its like hes there with you...holding your hand...showing what to do. Every responsible horse owner should have a copy of this book - period!"

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

If there is an art to getting horses to load in a trailer, then this it.

The first thing that must happen is communication between the horse and his handler. The horse must understand what is required of him and the handler must make it easy to understand.

Thus, you must start by getting the horse to move forward in either direction. After a direction is established then get him moving in the opposite direction. A round pen is excellent for this purpose.

When the horse gets good at moving both directions then its time to hook a lead rope to his halter and lunge him left and right. For instance, when you point left, the horse must know to go to your left. And vice versa for going right.

The final result should look like this. Youre holding the lead rope while facing your horse. As you hold the lead rope in your right hand, you hook the middle of the lead rope with your left thumb. Lift it up and point to the left.

Your horse, now knowing what to do, immediately goes to your left. After a circle or two you switch hands and get the horse to go to your right.

When he gets good at that, then send lunge him through gate openings, barn door openings, etc. Also, lunge him in smaller spaces to help him deal with his natural claustrophobia. You can do this by lunging him between you and a fence. As he goes back and forth make the space between you and the fence smaller. Be careful not to get stepped on.

Now that hes good at that, you take him by the trailer. You open the door and let him sniff it. Then you step back and face your horse. You lunge him left and right in front of the trailer while he passes back and forth by the opening.

After all this pointing and sending your horse now knows what you want. You have communicated to him when you point left that he is to move left and so on.

The next step is to face him to the trailer. With his head facing into the trailer and you standing on his left side you then send point him into the trailer.

Some horses will simply jump right in the trailer where others may take more work.

If your horse doesnt go in after pointing and coaxing then take him away from the trailer and make him work. Now you want to convey the idea that being in the trailer means he can relax. Being outside the trailer means he has to work hard. Eventually, hell catch on.

Once you have him in the trailer, pet him and let him relax. Talk to him. Let him know how good he did.

Obviously, getting a horse to load in a trailer isnt rocket science. But you can do it. It takes patience and work

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Horse owners who are history buffs may recognize the name Jesse Beery. Beery was an enormously famous horse trainer from the 1800s and early 1900s.

He learned to train horses at a very young age. It was clear he had a gift for horse training and made it his lifes work.

Among the almost countless things Beery could do with a horse, he taught them tricks. One of the most amazing tricks he taught was teaching a horse to drive without lines. In laymans terms, you have no long reins known as lines connected to the horse. The only connection to the horse is the buggy hitched to the horse This trick almost defies belief!

Beery said this about driving a horse without lines: "While I do not advocate it as being a universally practical way of driving a horse, yet it is possible to so thoroughly train the horse to certain signals that he can be controlled more reliably under excitement and in case of danger than it would be possible to manage him with bridle and lines."

Beery says there are a number of ways to teach this to a horse but suggests his method as the most reliable.

In a nutshell, Beery first turned his horse loose in an enclosure about twenty-five feet square. He would walk in with a whip and teach the horse to have confidence in him and not fear the whip. The horse is never whipped.

Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while its gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.

Put the horse away until the next day where the horse learns signals of the whip.

That process is as follows: Stand close the the horses hip and take a short whip and tap lightly on the right shoulder until the horse, in anticipation of driving a fly off, will swing his head around to where the tapping is. Step forward quickly and hand him a few oats, or a small piece of apple, almost in the act of turning his head around. Step back and continue the tapping and rewarding.

After a while, in his eagerness for the reward, he will take a step or two to the right when the tapping begins. Then caress him and treat him very kindly for that act. Soon, the idea will be conveyed that when tapped on the shoulder the horse will know to turn in that direction.

Remember to train both sides of the horse.

Once both sides are trained now an open bridle can be put on. Use short lines that come back as far as his tail only - but they are used only if he becomes unruly or to convey your idea to him.

The handlers whip should not be over five feet long at this stage and the handler should stand directly behind the horse. Beware of kickers Let the whip extend to about the middle of his mane.

The signal you wish for him to stop for is raising the whip and holding it in a perpendicular position. Associate the meaning of this movement, and position, just as the whip is raised so the horse can see it. Pull hard on the reins and say "Whoa" - all at the same time. After a few repetitions the horse will know what to do. Assuming you have thoroughly educated your horse to whoa

The first few times he stops without a pull of the reins step forward and reward him immediately. Much of the success of teaching this trick depends upon how you give the rewards. If the reward is given in a manner so that the horse can fully comprehend it was complying with the handlers wish, it will greatly enhance fixing this impression on the horses brain.

But if not given in the right manner, the reward will be worse than none at all.

In the same manner, the horse is taught to turn left and right. This is done by giving the horse a pretty smart tap on the lower part of the shoulder and immediately place the point of the whip three or four feet in that direction. Should he attempt to jump and go ahead too much, you can hold him in check with the action and signal to stop him.

Essentially, these are Beerys instructions for training a horse to drive without lines. Its important to note this is a shortened version of Beerys instructions and there is more to know.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Horse training can be a relatively mysterious subject to people who have not studied it. Even more mysterious is a behavioral problem a horse has that causes his owner stress and frustration.

What many horse owners dont understand is often the handler, not the horse, is causing the problem.

That being said, that is the first consideration in unscrambling the horses ill behavior.

For instance, a common problem riders have is a horse being spooky. In laymans terms, that means a horse is nervous and afraid something is going to "get him". Thus, whenever the horse and owner go for a ride its not usually a relaxing moment.

As a matter of fact, both horse and rider are on edge.

So if we take the premise that the rider is causing the horse to spook, then we must ask, "How is the rider causing this."

An uninformed rider may not be aware that perhaps he is sitting tensely in the saddle. Also, maybe hes stiff as a board and has a white-knuckle hold on the reins.

Believe it or not, the horse can sense and feel this tense. When the horse is in the habit of feeling it then the horses spookiness is also the riders.

Picture it like this. Two deathly scared kids are walking home at night. They both hear sounds and see things. One kid thinks he saw something and nervously asks, "D-d-d-did you see that" Seconds later the other kid hears something and cries, "D-d-did you h-h-hear that" Together they intensify each others fears and their anxiety grows leaps and bounds.

So it is with the rider and horse. Maybe not to that extent, but still it happens.

And since the rider is human and capable of reasoning, then he or she must be the one to interrupt the pattern of behavior. The rider must loosen up while in the saddle. Relax. Have fun. Learn to watch the horses signals that he has spotted something - and then talk to the horse and start giving him confidence.

Soon, the horses demeanor will change and the result will be a more relaxed, fun to ride horse.

Whether the rider realizes it or not, he or she is training the horse by just riding. The horse simply reacts to the stimuli he gets. If the stimuli is consistent, the horses reaction will become a habit until changed. If the stimuli is tense, causes fear reactions, and so on, the result is a spooky horse.

This is but one example of how us humans can actually be the reason the horse does or does not do something we ask of him. Although its true that the rider is not the cause 100% of the time, its a good place to start untangling the problem because its often where it begins.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Mistake #1:

"Here, Kitty Kitty..."

Unless they have been educated, new horse owners often think a horse is like a cat or dog. They figure if they tap their thighs and say, "Cmon,...Cmon,...Cmon..." the horsell will simply jump right in the trailer like a happy dog or cat.

Mistake #2:

"Using Food As Bait"

Putting hay, grain, apples, or whatever at the front of the trailer to tempt a horse to step in and eat almost never works. If it did, it would be a fluke. Ive seen horses lean forward to try and eat the food but wouldnt step into the trailer if their life depended on it.

Mistake #3:

"Forgetting To Hook The Trailer To The Truck"

Dont forget to hitch the trailer to the truck before getting a horse to go in the trailer. If a horse steps into a trailer that moves around unforgivably, you will have a harder time getting that horse in later. Hell remember it - especially if this is the horses first time.

Mistake #4:

"The Classic Tug Of War"

Heres the scene. Man or woman pulls lead rope to desperately drag their horse into the trailer. Horse weighs 10 times more than man or woman and has far more strength than the man or woman. Final score of this battle is: Human - Zero...Horse - Won

Mistake #5:

"Going Trail Riding Before Horse Is Good At Loading In A Trailer"

Ive seen it time and time again. People go trail riding and when the ride is over the horse wont get back in the trailer. Amusingly, the horse owner comments, "Dang horse, he got in their last month". Remember to get your horse to practice this so it gets fixed on his brain.

It seems there will always be at least once a horse owner cannot load his horse into a trailer. But the secret is to teach a horse sending signals so he knows what you want him to do. Its partly how man and horse communicate.

If you ever find yourself frustrated with your horse because he wont get in, heres a quick solution.

Get a long rope and loop it over his rear and let it slide down to about the top of his back legs. Let the rope hit around his back legs and note his reaction. Be holding this rope in your right hand and hold his halter with your left hand He may kick at the rope on his back legs or he may not. If he doesnt, it means hes likely okay with the rope being back there.

If he kicks at the rope then he needs to get used to it. Just let the rope kind of hang there and touch his back legs. The horse may get jumpy and try to move from it. He may move forward or in a circle. While holding his halter stiffen your left arm a bit and make him go around you while holding the rope and halter. You, the handler, are acting as an axis.

Fairly quickly the horse will realize the rope isnt hurting him and you can move to the next step.

Pull on the rope to get the horse to move with you. When he moves forward from your pull, release the pressure. The idea is for him to move when you exert the pressure. He should catch on pretty quickly to what you want.

Now lead him to the trailer and guide his head into the trailer if necessary. With the lead rope attached to his halter, pull on the lead rope while pulling harder on the "butt rope".

Your horse may or may not jump in the trailer but chances are he will. Also, be careful doing this because he may pop in the trailer very quickly and you could get hurt.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

They say the eyes are are the gateway to the soul. When it was said, they were referring to us humans. But the truth is, it also refers to horses.

Many horse owners dont understand the importance and usefulness of the horses eyes while training. That being so, let me share with you some things you may find useful - some you may know...some you may not.

First, theres the eye which reveals a little about the character of the horse youre working with. It may have a kind eye. A kind eye indicates the horse will be agreeable to train and will readily respond to your aids while training.

One way to tell if the horse is nervous is by noting his eyes. Horses can be very expressive in their looks. And you can tell if a horse is a nervous horse by the eyes appearing sort of "worried like."

Obviously, this nervous horse would require more thoughtful handling than would a non-nervous horse.

I have a horse that would get mad after a while of riding. She used to get what I call mad eyes. Her expression was actually a sort of angry expression. Mostly, the expression came from her eyes. Here eyes would get red after a while.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800s, talked a lot about the eyes of the horse. Even those many years ago he knew about the horses eyes. Beery discovered there were four different disposition types of a horse. Certain characteristics of the eyes would tell you much about the horses personality and how much work it would be to train the horse.

Berrys classic disposition type 3 was most interesting. Beery said "Where type #2 will allow you to do all the work, type 3 will do all the work for you. You only need to control its movements."

In all my training experience and many things Ive read, I concur with Beerys discovery. The eyes play an enormous role in horse training.

To read more about Beery and his methods, you can go to this web address:

http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm

There is still more to know about the horses eyes.

For one, when you work with a horse, its advisable to look him in the eye a lot. Why Because horses an extremely observant animal and they study their surroundings. If youre in their surroundings they are studying you too. If they see you looking at them in the eye it sends a message to them about who is in control.

If youre working with a horse thats cunning and known to run over people then you rarely want to lose eye contact with this horse. Sometimes when you look away for just a second he knows its his chance to charge at you. But keeping eye contact helps minimize that possibility.

Although a horses ears are part of the plan. the eyes are how the horse interprets his world. The horse gladly desires to approach an object or person that has caused him pleasure. Likewise, he runs from objects or persons that cause him pain. Pain could be a number of things like work, misuse of aids such as spurs, being talked to in an abrasive manner, etc.

Lots of horse owners get discouraged with their horse because they develop bad habits. One particular habit is kicking. I once read a great book on horses and it said this about kicking:

If a horse kicks at a man and sees he inspired the man with fear and makes him draw back, he will remember this and kick any man who goes near him whom he fears or has the memory of displeasure with.

Note the author said "...and see he inspired the man with fear". The point is the horse "saw" the man was inspired with fear. The horse used one of his greatest tools...his eyes. If a man shows no fear and knows how to handle a kicker, the horse will "see" he cannot inspire fear in the man and be less apt to kick although, if confirmed in the habit of kicking, it may require several training sessions to eradicate this from the horses memory.

In short, the eyes are the mirror of the horses mind. Quiet eyes indicate quietness and sincerity. Quick and lively eye indicate vivacity. Restless eyes turning in all directions indicate suspicion and show the horse is studying all around him and may perhaps be preparing some freak of self will. Turbid eyes indicate fear or anger.

Theres a proverb that tells us not to trust the horse that shows the white of his eyes. Perhaps its because the white shows when hes looking sideways and hes intent on seizing the moment when no attention is being paid for escape or attack.

I could go on about the eyes but this hopefully gives you a great idea as to how important the horses eyes are. Make it a habit to continually watch the horses eyes. Learn what he is thinking by learning his eyes.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

To the uninitiated horse owner, there are timely facts about horses they should know. In fact, when someone first gets a horse these timely facts should be studied and learned.

These timely facts come from the Jesse Beery horse training manual. Jesse Beery was a famous horse trainer from the 1800s. Interestingly, Beerys training methods are as powerful today as they were when Beery was alive.

Timely Fact #1:

Make your horse your friend, not your slave.

Timely Fact #2:

Almost every wrong act of the horse is caused by fear, excitement or mismanagement. One harsh word will increase the pulse of a nervous horse ten beats a minute. Hoses know nothing about balking until forced into it by bad management. Any balky horse an be started steady and true in a few minutes. I never found one that I could not teach to start his load in fifteen minutes and usually in three.

Timely Fact #3:

Intelligent horsemen have learned that kickers, biters and balkers are natural results of abuse, that not one horse in a hundred is vicious until made so by cruelty; that whipping a horse is as mean and senseless as whipping a baby, and that the most useful, obedient and long lived horses are those treated from birth with kindness and common sense.

Timely Fact #4:

The whip is the parent of stubborness, but gentleness wins obedience. There is no such thing as balkiness in a horse that is kindly treated, and that gets an occasional apple, potato or sugar from his masters hand.

Timely Fact #5:

When a hose is afraid or excited, quiet him by kind words and caress. An excited horse is practically crazy and to whip him is dangerous, foolish and cruel. I have known a single blow of the whip to balk a spirited horse. Whipping a balky horse is barbarous and only increases balkiness.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

It’s been weeks since you went riding. Now you have time to ride this afternoon and there ain’t no one gonna stop you. Excited, you saddle up your horse and get on him. You get about 50 feet from the barn and your horse turns around and goes back – and you can’t stop him. Why You have a barn spoiled horse. This is a common scenario for novice horse owners.

Here are the top three tricks to solve the barn sour problem.

Teach your horse that you have control over him. Once your horse gets it in his mind that you can make him do what you want him to do, you have control over him and can thus make him leave the barn. One way to get control over him is to use a training technique called doubling. When you double your horse you teach him you can control him.

It doesn’t take long before your horse will know you can control him. Be careful when doubling though. If you do it too much at a time you can over do it. Your horse could get so sensitive to you doing it that he may try to anticipate it. If he sees your hands making the slightest movement that looks like you’re about to double him, he may double himself. Thus, just double him four to six times a day on both sides. He’ll quickly learn you have control.

The next thing you can try is this: Make it dang hard to do the wrong thing – and make it real easy to do the right thing. Here’s what I mean. A while back my horse didn’t want to leave her buddies or the barn. We’d get about 100 feet away and she’d turn around and bolt back. She’d stop in front of the barn expecting me to get off, remove the saddle and tack, and put her back into the corrals.

By my barn is two hay stacks. There is a space between them big enough to go through and do figure eights around the hay stacks. So every time she’d go back I would make her work, and work, and work at running figure eights around those hay stacks. Then I would test her to see if she had enough and would leave the area.

The first seven times she ran back. Each time we came back to the barn we’d run more laps around the hay stacks. I could tell she was getting tired. But the eighth time I walked her away from the hay stacks I noticed she went quite a ways before turning to go back.

When we went back again we ran more figure eights. Only this time I could tell we didn’t have to do too many. I walked her out and away from doing the figure eights and I suddenly had a horse who decided that it was sooo much nicer going for a walk away from the barn rather than doing a bunch of crummy ol’ figure eights. We had a nice ride that day and she was in no hurry to get home.

The last thing to do is this: Ride. Ride a lot. Don’t wait for weeks or months in between riding. Try to ride at least once per week for three or four hours. Preferably, try to ride at least twice a week for a few hours at a time. Ideally, you should ride everyday. But that’s hard to do with today’s time constraints Doing that your horse will get in his brain that you’re going to ride and he’s going to leave the barn and there will be no argument. In fact, if you want to have a great horse the biggest secret is this: Ride the heck out him!

So if your horse is barn spoiled you can try doubling him to show you are in control. The next thing you can try is making the wrong thing difficult and the right thing easy. Make it dang hard for him to go the wrong thing and very pleasant to do the right thing. And lastly, ride your horse often. Two to three times a week if possible.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

As you likely know already, horses have at least 10 times our strength. If they also had our intelligence, they would probably be riding us humans. Fortunately, horses cannot reason like human beings and therefore will never have superior intelligence.

Since they dont have reasoning abilities, horse training becomes a challenge because you now have to understand how their intelligence works. You have to know what works and why to really be effective.

The biggest secret that makes it so we can train a horse is the fear of pain and/or punishment that our creator instilled in their mind. We can use that built-in fear to our advantage and teach the horse what we want him to do.

The trick is to not push the horse too far with his built-in fear. We must never abuse this knowledge because it will backfire. Once it backfires then we will have problems with the horse were training.

How does it backfire Lets take a novice horse owner who fulfills his dream to have horses and train them. Unless hes studied a horses nature he will probably get into big trouble with his horse because of the delicate balance of the horses built-in fear.

For instance, the very first lesson you must teach your horse is to have confidence in you. If your horse doesnt have confidence in you, he will neither trust you. Both are enormously important to horse training.

Think of confidence in this way. If youre a child whos just seen a scary movie on TV you probably want to sleep with Mom and Dad for the night. Theyll protect you. Youll be safe with them. Hopefully, you know these things to be true because you have experienced it with your own parents.

But if you didnt feel like theyd keep you safe you wouldnt have confidence in them, would you

A horses thinking is similar to that. He must have confidence in you when youre working with him.

A horse can be taught confidence in different ways. I prefer to the Jesse Beery confidence lesson.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800s, uses his confidence lesson as the beginning place of training his horses. He said, "This is the most important lesson of all." To learn more about Jesse Beery go to:

http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm

Interestingly, its also the easiest.

How nice it is that the most important lesson is the easiest to do.

Essentially, the confidence lesson takes advantage of but never abused the horses built-in fear. In a way, the fear is harnessed and carefully used to get the horses confidence in you. Its akin to getting a child to watch a scary movie and being there to protect him or her when they get scared.

When the horse experiences the fear, youre there to save the day. You make it so he depends on you to be his superhero.

When the horse gets fearful, you have to be there to tell him everything is okay. You do that through petting him. Talking to him in a soothing manner. Using a pleasant tone of voice.

I have a friend, Gene, who loves his horses but when they dont do certain things he think they should do, he punishes them. By punishing, I dont mean he hits or whips. A horse can feel punished just by a threatening tone of voice for example

Anyway, I rode with a group of people one day and Gene was in our group. We came upon running water. You could call it a small river or a big creek. It was about 30 feet wide and varied in depth from a foot to three feet.

Every horse crossed the water but Genes. Gene got so upset that his horse wouldnt cross that he began booting his horse in the ribs. That poor horse wanted to comply with Genes request but the running water scared him. The horse was spooking.

The horse paced back and forth, occasionally sniffing the water but never crossed it. The whole time Genes legs were wildly kicking the horse trying to get him to cross - yet the horse remained spooky.

What Gene didnt realize is the horse was fearful and needed his help. Anytime a horse is fearful of a place or a thing he should be reassured with pleasant, soothing voice sounds and/or petting him.

If you do what Gene did, you just gave your horse another thing to fear. Not only does that horse fear crossing running water, now he fears hes going to be punished for it. And its likely that anytime the horse comes upon running water both fears will crop up and Gene will have a horse that would like to comply but his instincts are so powerful that he probably wont unless Gene figures out what to do

Think of it from the horses point of view.

Youre a horse that cannot reason and youre instincts are self-preservation. What keeps your self-preservation in check is the built-in fear. Fear makes you run from danger. Fear is what keeps you alive. If you dont understand something you fear it even more.

Now knowing all that, imagine youre the horse and youre standing at the edge of the river. You wont cross it because you think theres danger in it somehow. On top of that, someone is on your back, pissed off and kicking you in the ribs because you wont go forward.

Not only are you scared of the water, but now youre getting kicked in the ribs and feeling punished. You want to be obedient and go forward but your instinct is too powerful and tells you not to.

It would be like telling a scared child who just saw a scary movie that he had to sleep in his own damn room.

But what if Gene had understood his horse was scared What if he helped his horse deal with his fear.

How would he do this

When Gene and his horse approached the water he could have spoke to his horse in a pleasant, soothing manner. When the horse was getting scared Gene should have recognized it as fear and not as disobedience.

He could have petted his horse to reassure him all is okay. He could have talked to his horse in a pleasant manner. He could have let his horse sniff the water and check it out on his own.

Instead, the horse was now confused, scared, feeling punished, less trusting of his rider, and who knows what else.

But if Gene wouldve recognized the fear in his horse then he could have helped his horse overcome it. Gene lost the awesome opportunity to gain a significant amount of the horses confidence and friendship in that river scene. Too bad too. Thats a beautiful paint horse.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

I get a lot of horse training questions about stopping a horse from kicking. The kicking habits of these horses range from the horse kicking at virtually anyone to kicking at only the husbands.

Its a daunting problem that lots of people have no idea how to cure. That being so, I want to share some insight to horses kicking.

First I want to relate some causes of horses starting in the habit of kicking. Because a horse kicks is no reason to think he is naturally bad or unmanageable. I dont think there is a horse alive that is "naturally" vicious. In fact, theyre made that way due to bad management or ignorant handlers.

Admittedly, there are some horses that inherit the characteristics of their ancestors. But one should never start to break a horse without first taking into consideration the nature, disposition, and understanding of a horse.

For instance, there are some horses that are naturally predisposed to have a "not so good" disposition. There are certain physical characteristics you can spot on a horse that indicate what his disposition is like.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800s, was brilliant at deciphering a horses disposition. He even wrote extensively about how to do it. You can read about it at http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm.

Anyway, now we can handle the horse according to its disposition. We can get it very nearly equal with a good dispositioned horse. All the difference in the world is due to the management and training of the colt. A horse with a "not so good disposition will require more patience and thorough work.

All animals in nature have a self defense of some sort. A horses self defense is kicking. After all, if you work with a horse that gets badly excited by some cause such as ropes or chains coming in contact with his legs and those parts of his body arent broken his first inclination is to kick it out of the way.

The trick is to break a horse in a way that the habit never occurs in the first place. Too many people think a lesson will be enough to educate the horse to be ready to go. But if youre driving your horse and he gets caught under the tail or the cross pieces of the shaft touch his quarters...and those parts are unbroken, it would likely frighten and excite him enough to cause him to kick.

And the worse part is this: Once started, there is an increased inclination to go on kicking until confirmed in the habit.

So the cure is prevention. You must make all parts of his body submissive to sensitivity of his extremities. One way to do this is using a technique called poling. Essentially, you take a light pole and start at a horses nose, rub it over the mane, back, belly, quarters, and sensitive parts of the body, until all muscles become relaxed.

But what if you have a horse confirmed in the habit of kicking

If thats the case, I can give you three possible answers.

One is to sell the horse. If you feel its not fixable then its not a good idea to keep the horse around. Youre going to get severely injured if youre not extra careful.

Two, get a professional trainer to help you. A trainer will charge anywhere from $400.00 per month to $900 per month. Is that worth it to get your horse to stop kicking Only you can decide.

Third, you can learn to do it yourself. There are solutions out there that are pretty good. Jesse Beery, which I mentioned earlier, has a permanent solution to stop it.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

There is a dangerous problem that horse owners should be very aware of. It’s when a horse stands up on his back legs. It’s called “rearing.” This problem can be quite dangerous and cause severe injuries to the rider and/or horse.

Rearing is perhaps a horse’s most effective defense against the rider. It is dangerous in that the horse can fall over backward onto its rider. Because of a horse’s enormous weight this can cripple and even kill the rider. Thus, it is good to know why, if possible, a horse rears. But even more importantly, how to stop it.

If your horse ever does rear with you on him, there isn’t much you can do. If he rears suddenly, he could lose his balance and fall or he could rear so explosively that he can throw himself back to the ground with the rider under him. If you’re on him while this is happening and you use the reins to pull on to keep from falling, you’re likely to pull the horse over.

Although it’s not one hundred percent infallible, the best way to protect yourself when a horse rears with you is to lean forward immediately and put your hands forward so you have loose reins. If you have to, you could even put your arms around his neck, let go of the reins and slide off. For my money, there aren’t any other safer ways to deal with a horse if he suddenly rears.

Why do horses rear There are several reasons why. Here are some examples.

I’ve read where a rider was on an obedient horse while trail riding. They came upon cows and it scared the horse because the horse was not used to cows. The rider tried to get the horse to go toward the cows to get it to learn that cows are not spooky. The horse obeyed and went forward but finally became so frightened that it reared up, lost balance, and fell on its rider. The rider suffered numerous broken bones.

The rider later understood the horse felt trapped. The horse obediently went forward even though it was frightened. As it got closer, fear overpowered the horse and it had nowhere to go but up.

Some horses rear because as colts they were too young to be ridden. Another reason rearing happens is because training may confuse the horse. The horse may be asked to do too much at one time and not know what to do.

Sometimes a horse will rear if it is forced to yield to the bit. Other horses may rear if you try to get them to put out more energy than they can. On the opposite end, some horses may rear because they want to go and you don’t let them.

So how do you stop a horse from rearing

First, let’s take a look at the anatomy of a horse while it rears. A horse cannot rear while running. A horse must stop or be barely moving to be able to rear. If a rider has had enough experience on a horse he can feel when the horse gets light in the front. In a way, it would be a bit like sitting in the middle of a teeter-totter where you can feel one side getting light.

So, if a horse has to stop to rear up then it makes sense to keep the horse moving so it cannot rear up. Thus, if you feel your horse getting light in the front then you move him forward and do it with meaning. Not just a patient “cluck” from your mouth. Do it like you mean it. And it’s also important he has a place to go forward – don’t have him blocked in by anything.

If your horse rears up and you weren’t ready for it then lean forward and give your horse loose reins. As soon as your horse’s feet are almost back to the ground then make your horse go forward. Let the horse know, with no doubt whatsoever, to go forward. Boot the horse “hard” into going forward. When your horse has gone forward a little ways then double him and drive him forward out of the double. Then double him the other way and drive him forward from it also. Then bring your horse to a stop.

What does it mean to “double” your horse Essentially, you will pull his head back one way towards his hind quarters. The moment he is committed to the turn then boot him forward. This impresses upon your horses mind that you can control him.

Other so-called “schools of thought” to stop rearing are to hit a horse over the head with a two-by-four when he rears up. I’ve even read where people break beer bottles over the horse’s head. Some people use the handle end of a riding crop. Not only are these inhumane ways to stop rearing, they are rarely, if ever, effective. They don’t teach a horse anything except to fear the rider. Hitting a horse over the head when you are trying to build a trust relationship will destroy all you’ve worked for.

As is almost always the case, the best way to get a horse to do what you want is to use psychology of the horse. Get him to move and you can accomplish miracles.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

The other day, I was invited to see my friend’s new horse. He had her for about a month before I got to see her. When I arrived at his house, he met me outside and said, “C’mon…let’s go see her.” We stood at the fence and marveled at how beautiful she was. Excited, he asked, “You wanna pet her” “Sure!” I said. So my friend grabbed the halter and went after her.

As I watched him chase her I was reminded of those silent movies where everyone is moving comically fast with the music in the background. As I chuckled to myself I heard him ask aloud, “Why does she keep running from me”

That was a good question. Lots of people have that trouble. There are lots of reasons horses run from their owners. One reason is fear. Horses are the epitome of fear. If they sense their life is in danger they’ll run.

If a horse is comfortable with their herd, even if its one or two other horses, it can be uncomfortable for him. His entire DNA speaks loud and clear to him that the herd is the safest place to be. Therefore, if he leaves the herd it could mean his life is threatened – at least…that’s his thinking.

One of the biggest mistakes I see are new horse owners that make their horse work almost every time they go to see them. Picture it. You’re a horse standing there with your buddies. It’s ninety-four degrees out side, the flies won’t leave you alone, and you were doing fine just standing there doing nothing – thank you very much. And because you are enormously alert due to your innate fear, you quickly spot your owner coming to you holding that weird looking, not-so-good-fitting rope thing that goes on your head.

The last 400 gazillion times your owner walked toward you with it in his hand, he accidentally jabbed your cheek while clumsily jerking it on your head. Then he made you leave your friends and go run in circles for thirty minutes. Boring!

Rather, the horse owner should alternate working and pleasure for his horse. In other words, one day walk to your horse with the halter in your hand and pet him. Talk to him. Tell him how beautiful he is. Take your halter and rub it on his body as if it were a brush. Get him thinking that the halter will give him pleasure so when he sees it he’ll feel good about it.

The next day, with halter in hand, go see your horse and pet him. Talk nice. Then put his halter on. Pet him again. Keep talking nice. After a few minutes, take the halter off and rub his body with it. Then walk away.

Now your horse is starting to think, “Great! That’s all he wanted.” For a while, alternate when you ask your horse to work versus not work and take your halter with you each time to keep him guessing, “Is he gonna pet me and tell me I’m purty, or are we going to work a little I’m guessing he’ll pet me so I’ll stay put.”

Other reasons horses run from their owners is they may lack good training. Another reason is maybe the horse is getting positive reinforcement at the wrong time. How can that be A horse could learn to run from his owner - and if he does he gets a carrot or some kind of temptation AFTER he runs.

So how do you stop the running and catch your horse

It depends why the horse runs. If your horse is fearful then you need to get his trust back. You do that by doing positive things with your horse. When you catch him, don’t ask him to work. Get out your brush and groom him. He’ll like that. You want him to think of being with you as a pleasant experience – one that he wants when he sees you. This is especially crucial if you’re going to take him away from his buddies in the herd.

Because the horse feels safe being with his buddies in the herd, you must make him feel safe being taken out of the herd. Thus, when you catch him you can groom him and give a good experience to make him feel safe.

A good practice is to put your horse in a small pen and go up to him. Teach him that it’s good to be with you. This will give you a good foundation to catch him later when he’s in an open field.

Another nifty trick you can do is use lunging to teach your horse to come you. Don’t simply run him in boring circles. Have him change directions, go over and through obstacles, etc. Make sure to praise him when he does well and give him rest. Don’t run him into the ground. If you do, he’ll go back to thinking you’re going to make him work real hard.

As you’re lunging him, use commands to get him to do what you want him to do. As you and he get good at this, he’ll respond much better to you in the open field.

A mistake many people make is chasing the horse to try and catch him. You simply can’t do it. They’re too fast and agile. Not only that, it tends to reinforce a horse’s instinct of being preyed upon and they need to get to safety…which means…get away from you.

Sometimes you can use another horse to help you catch a horse by being buddies with the horse you don’t want to catch. If you go to pet a horse it can sometimes draw the horse you want to catch. He may want petted too.

Be sure to never punish a horse once you catch him. First, he won’t know why he got in trouble. And second, it’s a great way to get him to NOT want to be with you . If he doesn’t want to be with you, he will evade you often.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

There are lots of ways a horse can go lame. Perhaps the most common cause of lameness is a result of Navicular Syndrome. The fortunate thing is that it can be treated where the horse gets complete, successful recovery if diagnosed and treated in it’s early stages. Here’s what you need to know about Navicular Syndrome.

First, there is a small bone between the coffin bone and the short pastern bone called the navicular bone. This bone is important in that it distributes the horse’s weight between the coffin bone and the short pastern bone. The result is that it reduces the stress on both the coffin bone and short pastern bone when the foot lands to the ground and weight is put on it. Even though the rear feet have navicular bones, it is the fore feet that are most often affected

The navicular bone also works with a tendon called the “deep digital flexor tendon.” This tendon flexes the coffin and pastern joints. It also absorbs shock when the hoof strikes the ground. When the flexor tendon moves, it slides over the cartlidge-covered navicluar bone which lowers the work load of the tendon when the foot moves.

Thus, when the horse’s foot lands to the ground there is a lot of force on the navicular bone. As the horse’s weight is transferred over the foot, the bone is pushed against the tendon. When this happens repeatedly, then damage to the navicular bone and the tendon can occur.

One thing that can happen is the cartlidge can lose its slippery surface and friction can develop between the navicular bone and the tendon. Then the tendon can become rough and make the sliding motion on the navicluar bone even worse. This ultimately leads to pain for the horse and worse, lameness. Worse, the blood flow to the navicular bone and the tendon could be decreased and it may not heal.

How can you tell if your horse may have navicular syndrome One is he may not want to change leads. He may lose his suppleness or perhaps have a stiff and jerky gait. As this gets worse the may show lameness where you may see short stride in one or both front legs. The horse will purposely try to step on his toe portion of the foot because the pain will be in the back of the foot. Thus, you will see his toe is worn more than any other part of the foot.

This condition will more easily show up in hard-working horses. It also is more apparent when a horse works in tight circles. When he is moving in a straight line it is not as apparent. The lameness seems to almost disappear when the horse is at rest. It will reappear when it is working hard again.

How do you treat navicular syndrome First, begin early. The horse owner is responsible for recognizing there may be a problem. If there is a problem, then the veterinarian and the farrier should be called so treatment can begin. The treatment consists of corrective trimming and shoeing, pain relieving and inflammation decreasing drugs, and carefully controlled exercise.

Interestingly, treatment for navicular syndrome may be quite different from veterinarian to the next. They will not necessarily prescribe the same treatment.

Exercise is one of the most important parts of the treatment because it increases blood flow to the horse’s foot. But remember that the exercise has to be carefully done.

What horses are the most likely to have navicular syndrome Hard working horses like race horses, cutting, reining, calf roping, and barrel racers. They are especially more likely to get navicular syndrome if they work on hard surfaces and have poor conformation.

Navicular syndrome is most common in horses with upright pasterns. Navicluar syndrome is also common in horses when the hoof and pastern slope at different angles.

As a horse owner, you should know that improper trimming and shoeing can also cause navicular syndrome. If the farrier trims a heel too low on a horse with an upright pastern it can increase the pressure where the flexor tendon and the navicular bone meet.

Thus, be watchful of your horse. If you see something out of the ordinary when you ask your horse to work hard you may begin by looking for navicular syndrome since it is the most common cause of lameness in horses. As always, consult your veterinarian for diagnoses and treatments.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Imagine being on a horse and he bolts. You pull those reins to slow him down but it’s no use. He resists and the fence posts go whizzing by you as you panic and pray he doesn’t shift his bodyweight and you fly off his back into a post.

It’s scary to be on a horse that runs on his own volition and can’t be slowed down. Many people will sell their horse because they’re so scared of that happening again. How do you keep a horse from bolting like that

There is a way to temper your horse even if he spots something that scares him and he wants to run in fear. I call it, “Installing an emergency brake.”

This is done on the ground while you’re doing ground training. Every time you work with your horse you should spend a few minutes doing this – even if you know your horse “gets it.” It simply cannot be done enough.

What does it look like when you use the emergency brake on your horse While you’re riding, you reach down to either rein. You tightly grab the rein, slide it up your legs along the seam of your pants up to your hips. At the same time, you are loosely holding the other rein. As you do this, your horse’s nose will be pointing back towards his rear end.

Why does this work Ever try to run forward while looking backwards Need I say more There are exceptions. Some horses are so limber they will run forward with their nose buried in their sides – but not many

But you can’t simply get on your horse and expect to pull his head back if he takes off. You must do some ground work first. And here’s what you do.

Put a halter on your horse and hook a lead rope to the halter. Stand on the left side of your horse. Stand by your horse across from his back leg. Take your right arm and put it over his rump. Next, pull the lead rope towards you and rest your left hand on his back.

At this point your horse will resist some. If he pulls his head forward you hold the lead rope in place. Eventually he will move his head back towards you and give into the pull you have on the lead rope. The second he moves his head back towards you then you release the lead rope tension and praise him. In other words, when you see the lead rope has slack in it because he moved his nose back towards you, then release.

Eventually, you want him to touch his nose to his body. That’s the goal you’re shooting for because the more his head comes around the better control you will have. Also, there’s a second goal you’re shooting for. When you pull the lead rope around to bring your horse’s head back, you want it to be where you don’t pull. He moves his head back for you. As you pull on the lead rope his head moves back with no exertion from you. His head follows. It’s called being responsive. This is important because when you’re riding your horse and you have to pull his head around you don’t want to have a tug of war while you’re riding a bolting horse. You want him to automatically do it.

At first your horse won’t be able to touch his nose to his body. So you start with small successes. At first you pull his head back towards you until you get resistance. When you do, hold the lead rope tension. Don’t make the tension more or less, simply hold it there. The second he looks back toward you more and creates slack in the lead rope, you give him immediate relief and take the tension off the lead rope completely. Then you tell him what a good boy he is. Pet him too. Let him know that’s just what you wanted.

As you do this, you will want him to bring his head farther and farther back until he begins to touch his nose to his body. Don’t try to get him to touch his nose to his body within the first one or two ground sessions. That’s rushing it and you likely won’t make it happen. This takes time to get your horse to understand what you want him to do.

Remember to do this on the other side of your horse too. What your horse can do on his left side, he should be able to do on his right side.

When you have your horse touching his nose to his side, then you’re ready to get on him and test his emergency brake. Get on your horse and go for a test ride. If he starts to run and you don’t want him to, grab a rein and pull his head around. Don’t jerk the reins…pull. Then boot him into a circle. When he slows down or stops like you want him to then release the pressure. Remember to do it on the left and right reins.

If your horse doesn’t easily touch his nose to his body while riding him, then you need to have him practice it more. Also, before you go riding have him touch his nose a few times on each side with the bit in his mouth. Doing these things will cinch your riding into a pleasant experience.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

I’ve been around many people who try to lead a horse by controlling their head with a lead rope. They end up pulling or jerking the lead rope and the horse will typically pull back or push around the person with the lead rope.

Ultimately, you want slack in the lead rope while leading your horse because you don’t want to pull or jerk him. If your horse moves incorrectly while leading him then you can stop and correct him by making him move his body.

To really be successful in having control the secret is having control over your horse’s body. How do you do that By controlling his feet by making him move his rear end away from you. Also known as “disengaging the hind quarters Why this works so well is it alleviates stiffness and tension and almost magically forces your horse to focus on you.

There are few ways to get your horse to move his rear end away from you. Much of the time, you can stand facing his shoulder and point to his hip. If he doesn’t move keep pointing and cluck at him. If he still doesn’t move, twirl the end of your lead rope at his hip and cluck. If he still doesn’t move tap him with the lead rope while clucking at him.

At any time he moves, take the pressure off him immediately. Give him a pat and a “good boy” and ask for another move. Repeat. Then ask for more steps. Remember to do this on both sides of the body too. It won’t be long when you will simply point at his hip and he’ll move them for you. Do this every day for a while to get it in his mind that you are in control.

Okay. Now that you moved him, turn your body to walk forward while holding your lead line. Something magical happens right here. Your horse suddenly focuses his attention on you. He’s very aware of your movement and what you’re doing. If he messes up because he was distracted or something scared him, all you have to do is move his rear end again. Eventually your horse will start gauging your pace and keep up with you at the same pace you move.

If your horse starts to get ahead of you while leading, move his hindquarters. If he’s lagging behind you, move his hindquarters. If he goes off into La La Land, move his hindquarters.

Having good control leading your horse is perhaps the most basic training technique there is. But it is also the way we get horses in trailers, moving them around, bathing them, and even riding them. This will help teach your horse to be soft and responsive. And if you have a soft responsive horse while you are on the ground, then you will more likely have the same kind of horse while you’re sitting in the saddle. And that is the ultimate goal.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Some people have horses they don’t dare tie. Why Because they break their halters and/or crossties. So what is a person to do in their horse training practices

My first suggestion is to get a rope halter. But not just any ol’ rope halter. Get one of those rope halters that are thin because they cut into the horse’s poll more if they pull back. It sends a message to the horse that’s it’s not desirable to pull back.

When you get the rope halter on, tie the lead rope to the halter. Try not to use hardware on the lead rope if possible…instead tie it to the halter.

Next, try tying the lead rope to a tree limb. Find a limb that’s about as thick as your forearm. You want the tree limb to bend some because as the horse pulls back the limb gives but doesn’t break.

A good type of tree to tie to is a willow tree if you can find one. Be careful that the limb isn’t cracked. If the horse pulls back on the limb and it breaks you could really have a wreck.

Leave about two feet of rope between the heel knot and the limb you tie to.

Now here’s how it works. If the horse pulls back, the limb will bend. This lessens the resistance and lessens the desire to pull. Once the horse stops pulling, the limb pulls back – creating pressure – much like a giant rubber band. It causes him to step forward. He will soon get sore around his nose and his neck if keeps pulling.

What you’re after is the horse being uncomfortable when he pulls back. Not only do we want him to have the inability to break loose…we want it to be uncomfortable. We’re wanting Mr. Horse to think to himself that it’s crazy to even try to pull back

If you can’t find a good tree limb to tie to, you can use an inner tube. Make sure it’s good and strong and that you tie it to something good and secure

What’s important now is you must tie up your horse several hours a day – preferably all day – day after day until he is cured of it. There’s only time to untie your horse. If he struggles and gets in a bind where he could be in danger of breaking a leg or neck or choking to death then you untie him.

So once you tie him, you gotta watch him for a while and make sure he’s not going to get himself hurt.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Picture this. Youre late for work one day. You look at your watch and notice you have about three minutes to feed your horse before you have to leave. Plus, it seems to worsen every day. You notice your life getting busier and you have little time, if any, to spend with your horse.

Should you sell him Should you keep him What do you do.

It depends. If you only want a pet that eats a lot of hay, then you can keep him if it is affordable. If you want to ride him but you know you wont have time then consider selling him. Ouch!

However, if you know you will eventually have time to ride then you can keep your horse "tuned up" by doing some "quick and easy to do" horse training maneuvers on him.

For instance, you have about two minutes to feed your horse before you go to work. So you rush outside and get some hay for him. Just before you feed him you get beside him and practice his backing up.

Backing him up is a great way to keep him "tuned up". Why You get your horse to move. When you get your horse to move you earn more and more of his respect. Getting a horse to move is using the horses psychology to get it in his brain that you are the boss. The chief. The head-honcho.

There are more exercises to do than just backing.

Say you have a horse that wont come to you. The reason he wont is likely because of fear or doesnt trust you.

But for the next few weeks go feed your horses with a halter and brush in hand. Horses love to be brushed. Once you get it in his head that seeing the halter means pleasure you will almost never have trouble getting him to come to you.

Heres a good one many people dont know. When you go to feed your horses whistle loudly if you can. If you whistle a certain way and if youre consistent in the way you do it...then you can usually call horses in from an open field and theyll come a runnin.

Want another tip Try this.

Before you feed your horse, approach him and pet on his withers. Assuming you are standing on his left side poke your finger into his flank around the rib/hip area. Hold it there. If he doesnt move, increase the pressure and hold it. If he doesnt move, increase the pressure even more and hold it. Repeat this process until he moves away from the pressure.

When he moves reward him with a petting on the forehead. Do it a couple more times then repeat on his right side.

Doing this teaches the horse a couple things. First, it teaches him to move away from pressure. Since pressure is a tool we use to communicate with the horse, we want him to know how to move away from it.

Secondly, you are doing ground work of teaching your horse to move his hindquarters away from you. Thus, when you sit on the saddle and apply pressure with your boot in that same area, you have primed him to move away from that pressure - he moves his rear end away from your foot.

This is a tremendous tool to not only disengage a horses hindquarters, it is also part of how to teach a horse to sidepass.

There are more "quick to do" horse training tips you can do. These are but a few examples of what you can accomplish even if you have just minutes a day.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Horse training is an art. But it also has rules that govern how to work with and train a horse.

For instance, when youre training a horse to do something, you dont want to drill him with it so much that he becomes sour on it and unwilling to do it next time. The trick is to get him doing what you ask, then asking him to do it a few more times, then stop asking.

You can ask him to do it more for you the next day but you should stop asking for too much.

Heres a human view on why thats important.

If you were to get a piece of paper and write the word "training" on it, chances are you would do it just fine.

But what if I asked you write it again Why would I ask you to do that Because I just want to make sure you know to do it. So, I ask you to write it again.

When you get done writing it again I pat you on the back and say "Way to go. Now, lets do it again."

Apprehensive and sighing, you do it again. This time, after you write it, I ask you to immediately re-do it because I want it capitalized.

You give me a dirty look and rewrite it.

Then I ask you to do it again.

Now....arent you getting tired of rewriting the word "training" After all, you did what I asked. Plus, I asked you to rewrite it and capitalize it. It was still the same word and you were still doing what I asked but I just wanted to make sure you were doing it.

This gives you a feel for why a horse shouldnt have to redo something over and over. The rule is once he gets it and does it a few more times then quit asking for it. Give him something else to do. Make it interesting for him.

Another thing I like to do is assess my horses disposition before I start working with him. I like to know what my student is like before I start his education.

For instance, is he a nervous horse If so, Ill be very quick to reward him and carefully use aids. Ill keep his confidence high by caressing him often.

Or, is he a willful horse If so, Ill have to be more persistent and patient to get him doing something I ask.

Its important to know what a horse is like before training like a teacher should know her students before teaching.

If you were a teacher and the school principal accurately described what each kid was like then you could be a more effective teacher.

For instance, what if you had a kid that was deaf in one ear and a little hard of hearing in the other but was a fast learner As a teacher, if you didnt know this you may be inclined to think this child is lazy or perhaps dumb. And if the child sat in the back of the room the whole time this problem would only get worse - and you wouldnt know he is a fast learner.

But if you knew he was deaf in one ear and hard of hearing in the other then youd want to put him in the front row and talk louder. Perhaps you may suggest his parents get him a hearing aid. Youll do all you can to help your student learn.

This is much like a horse. The teacher must do all he can to help his horse learn. The teacher must understand his horse first to see how he can best help his student learn.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.

If you ever rode a horse that would stop and refuse to go forward then you would know how absolutely annoying it is.

Why do they stop Because thats their reaction to a worrisome or unpleasant situation. Even nervous and timid horses can stake themselves to the ground because they are apprehensive about leaving the herd or the barn.

What other reasons are there for napping One is the horse simply doesnt know what to do. Theyd rather stop and stand than move forward. If your horse naps in a place hes familiar with ie. your home area then you should check your tack for things like a bad fitting saddle. The pain could finally become unbearable and the horse simply wont move.

Often, horses will react to bad fitting tack by rearing or bucking. So when tack is bad fitting, napping is a pretty good alternative compared to rearing or bucking.

Another place a horse may nap is riding around an unfamiliar area. If he naps during this then its likely hes doing it out of fear. The same can be true if he sees unfamiliar objects.

A secret tip about nappers is to closely observe where theyre napping. If you find they get nappy around certain things then you might spot a pattern. For instance, every time your horse rides by a hay tarp and he stops then that is likely your culprit. But it could be lots of different things. It could be bushes. Trees. Dog pens. Etc.

When trying to solve napping from fear, you should take the approach when working with a spooking horse. A horse that spooks needs to be treated kindly. He shouldnt be forced into stepping over his "fear boundary". You have to talk to them, pet them, and be patient.

It just so happens that this is one of the easiest and most effective ways to solve the napping problem. The tradeoff is that it also takes the most time. But so what Horse training is about patience.

So what do you do Simply sit in the saddle. Youll want to give your horse enough rein to stretch his neck but dont give him so much that he can graze. Then you simply sit there until he decides to move forward. Dont let him go left or right. Dont let him back up or turn around and head home. Dont kick him. Dont yell at him.

You are telling your horse its okay to stand still but he doesnt get to anything but stand there or move forward.

At some point the horse should move forward. When he does, give him plenty of reward.

The results from waiting for your horse to move forward are far better with patience and kindness than trying to force your horse to move. Sure, it may take a l-o-n-g time for him to move but hell eventually feel safe enough to do it - or he may get bored just standing there - and you should know that boredom and feeling safe are almost the exact same thing in the horses mind.

Next time you take your horse out and he naps it may take half the time for him to move. Then the next time it may only take a few minutes. Its kind of like the old rule of training. The more you work on it the lesser time it takes.

What do you do while youre patiently waiting for your horse to move If youre with friends then warn them before hand this may happen. You may have to sit there and have a conversation. If youre by yourself bring a crossword puzzle or even a book. Do what it takes for you to pass the time and not get impatient.

Just remember to treat it like you would a horse thats spooking. Most of the time, napping is a reaction to spooking. You simply have to be patient and wait it out.

© 2004 Andy Curry

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

To the uninitiated, voice commands for the horse are nothing more than words. But to the horse they are only sounds.

Obviously, horses cannot speak our language. Since they cannot speak our language we should think through what we say to them when we want certain responses from them.

Take the word "whoa" for instance. I have no doubt this is the most abused word in the human/horse language. When the rider says "whoa" then the horse should know to stop.

But the problem is this. Often the word "whoa" is said when the rider wants the horse to slow down...not stop. Before you know it, the rider has conditioned the horse to slow down at the word "whoa" instead of stopping. Then the rider cant understand why the "stupid" horse wont stop when he says "whoa!".

Telling your horse a command when you mean for it to do something else is lying to your horse. You never lie to your horse because the results you get will not be what you want. Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800s, knew this well and was the first to say "dont lie to your horse".

Thus, when you say "whoa" to your horse, you must only say it because you want to stop...not slow down.

Also, when using voice commands be sure to use simple words with as few syllables as possible.

Thus, if you want a horse to back up then say "back". If you want him to walk then say "walk". If you want him to trot then say "trot".

Next, when using voice commands be sure to associate an action with the command. For instance, lets say youre teaching your horse to gallop at the command "gallop". So while in the round pen you use one of your aids to teach him to gallop. So first you say "gallop" then bring in the aid to motivate his movement to a higher speed.

If you want to teach your horse to walk then start your horse around the pen in the opposite direction from which you taught him to gallop. When hes gone around several times, stop him, and pet him. If he goes too fast use the word "walk" and have him go slower by making a slight move to the front of him.

Lastly, Im a big advocate of being careful how you talk to your horse.

If you use commands that sound threatening by yelling a command, you can actually increase your horses heart rate, frighten and confuse him, and he may take longer to learn.

For instance, a popular command to teach a horse is the word "step". When driving a horse, using this command means for the horse to move forward...take a step. When teaching it, be careful not to yell the command because it may be perceived by the horse as a punishment.

But if you calmly say "step" you will get better results than if you yell it. Often times, when a horse isnt "getting what you want", theres a tendency to get frustrated and thus, mad - and your voice volume can escalate. Then youre back to sounding threatening and perhaps your horse will take even longer to understand what you want.

Ive seen where horses were being taught to drive where the owner taught the word "step". When teaching it, he would loudly say "STEP!". It wasnt long before the horse was actually balking. Then the owner was getting frustrated and kept repeating his command even louder...as if the horse couldnt hear him.

It reminds me of a show I once saw on television. One english speaking man was talking with a spanish speaking man. The spanish speaking man knew no english. The english speaking man was trying to communicate with the spanish speaking man. After a minute of obvious noncommunication, the english speaking man spoke slower and louder. Unfortuantely, the spanish speaking man didnt understand english whether or not it was spoke loud, soft, fast, or slow.

In summary, use short words. Use the word when you want a certain action - only say the word when you want that particular action. If you want your horse to slow down then say something like "easy". Dont say "slow" because he may take it for "whoa".

Next, associate actions with commands and calmly talk to your horse. Horses can hear very well and yelling command will not make the command any more clear - if anything, it will frighten and confuse him.

© 2004 Andy Curry

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

The more I listen to others, read books on the subject, look at different articles, and watch and listen to tapes, the more I discover how different people claim their methods of horse training are the correct ones.

I often find one trainer will adamantly oppose a technique where another will adamantly swear by its effectiveness. Even more interesting, each has his or her own reasons why.

On one hand, I find it fascinating that trainers think their way is truly the correct way. On the other hand, I get a sick feeling in my stomach when I think other people are persuaded to believe those trainers who push their methods as "the only one".

Why

Because Ive discovered a percentage of the horse owner population think what they learned is all thats available. The problem with that is this: Not every horse will respond to the technique in the same way. Then, a different approach is needed. If the horse handler doesnt know another technique, he is now limited to knowing something that doesnt always work.

But why wouldnt a trainer believe his is correct After all, if it works for him then it IS correct...for him.

Personally, I dont subscribe to any one trainers ways completely. For example, if trainer "John Doe" taught his method and said "do it just like this" chances are I wouldnt. I have my own things that work and some them are similar to or the same as what John Doe does.

Im a BIG advocate of learning all you can from everyone who has something good to show you. Never, never, never learn one persons techniques and be satisfied. If you do, you will miss out on some of the neatest techniques ever. You limit yourself and what you could REALLY do.

Although I push what I know, Ill be the first to admit I dont know it all and that you MUST learn all you can.

Even if you learn different ways, then you must proceed with caution because some of the things you learn will seem hard to grasp. Sometimes, theyll seem unreachable. At times, theyll seem ridiculous.

Let me cite a couple examples.

A while back, I ordered a video of a trainer from Germany. His name is Klaus Ferdinand Hempfling. The video is called "Coming Together".

Unfortunately, this video is more than a bit abstract. It doesnt teach a whole lot but what it does teach is a bit unusual.

Now dont get me wrong. Im not putting down the video. Actually, I kind of enjoyed it. Still, when it was over, I felt like I was left hanging.

This trainer uses his body to establish leadership, friendship, and trust. Briefly, he describes what he does but you dont really get how it all fits together.

Clearly, the horses he works with have a connection with him. But his style of training is quite unorthodox compared to much of what Ive seen and read.

Could the average horse owner do what he does and do it effectively Id have to say "no" because his methods would require him to be right there with you for weeks months training the trainer. Not only that, much of what Hempfling explained on tape seemed so abstract. It wasnt easy understanding all his principles.

The worse part is once youve watched this you may think to yourself you could never do what he does so why try to be a horse trainer. Thats one of the things that worry me about aspiring horse owners and trainers.

They see someone getting results with horses using seemingly "not from this world" techniques. Then they silently say to themselves, "Whats the use...I could never do that."

Luckily, there are powerful alternatives. Ill explain in a minute or two.

Another Ive studied is a man named Henry Blake. Blake is from Ireland I think and grew up with horses all his life. He claims to have a gift with horses that transcend human understanding. After reading his book, I am inclined to agree with him.

Blake even created a dictionary to help us humans understand what the horse is trying to communicate to us. Its fascinating.

One part in Blakes book talks about ESP with his horses. Blake contends he can get his horses moving, stopping, and turning with just his thoughts. He doesnt claim to do this with any horse, only particular ones. Especially if they are Thoroughbreds.

When I read Blakes take on the ESP thing I tended to discount it. Then again, I have had the ESP experience with my Paint horse. She and I are particularly close and there is a connection between her and I that transcends words. I dont claim to steer her left and right or stop her with my thoughts but there have been times where shes done something I wanted her do and I swear I didnt say or do a thing. Gives me chills when I think about it.

Anyway, Blakes book is fascinating reading. Id suggest anyone read it who is into horses. One part that really grabbed my heart strings was when his horse ran to greet him after not seeing him for months. That story, to me, is the ultimate in having a horse as a friend.

So far, it still isnt clear who we should listen to. Should we follow Hempflings horse training methods Should we follow Blakes Who should we listen to

My suggestion is learn all you can from everyone you can. Use what works for you. Be careful to make judgments about a horse trainers methods before understanding "why" he does what he does.

For instance, I am a big fan of Jesse Beery who was a famous horse trainer from the 1800s. His methods are so easy and straight forward youd think theyre too easy.

Beery pushes control and obedience and uses techniques to nurture it - some people dont agree with his methods. My response to that is "learn all you can...use what you want".

But for my money, Beerys methods are unbeatable. They are easy to do. They train a horse so well that safety is the biggest benefit - for what good is it to have and ride a horse if you get seriously hurt

You can learn more about Beery by listening in on Andy Currys free teleseminars. To find out when the next one is, go to this web address: http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/teleseminar_signup.htm

How does one get a horse so safe with Beerys methods Simple. Beery shows how to get control and obedience from your horse. Without control and obedience, you wont have a horse you can trust. If you cant trust your horse, your horse will know it. You then put yourself in danger and risk getting hurt - even to the point of ending up crippled.

But with Beerys methods, you practically eliminate all risks. You transform your horse into a tractable, manageable, valuable horse thats the envy of anyone who rides him. Not only that, Beery shows how to eliminate numerous bad habits.

His methods are straight forward, easy to do, and best of all...they are NOT abstract. You wont be saying to yourself, "I dont get it."

In fact, Beerys methods are so well thought out, tested, and proven that you can train a horse to "Whoa" under any condition, and under any excitement.

Whats so special about that "Whoa" is the most important command a horse must know. Especially, if you are a horse owner aged 30 to 60 because we tend to "hurt" and "break" a lot easier and faster than when we were younger.

If you cant control your horse to stop while fence posts are whizzing past you when youre riding a out of control horse, you risk severe injury, danger, and perhaps...death. Having a horse that will stop under any condition despite any excitement is, in my book, training that everyones horse should have - period!

© 2004 Andy Curry All Rights Reserved

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Ill never forget one of the first horses I trained by myself. I could not have picked a better horse to give me problems.

This horse was slow to motivate. He was very much his own "person" so to speak and was going to do what he pleased...at least...thats how it seemed.

There are plenty of horses in this world that will move when you want them to move. In fact, some horses can be so nervous it takes little effort to get them moving in the round pen. In a way, they almost train themselves.

When I was first training this horse he moved slowly and not very deliberately. Teaching him to drive was very difficult because he just wasnt going to move for me.

The first time I put a surcingle on him and attached the lines he had no more intention on moving forward than an elephant with no legs.

The lesson I was teaching was to move forward. When you want your horse to move then, obviously, you want him to move...not stand there.

A typical way to teach moving forward and associating the action with a command is to get behind your horse and to the left a little. Then give a slight pull on the left rein, then say "step" or "get up" and tap him on his rear end with the whip.

Most every horse I worked with, this technique worked well. But the technique failed with this horse.

Whenever I tapped him on the butt he would either stand there and blink his eyes or he would turn around and just look at me.

To the trained trainer it may seem he was balking. In fact, thats what I feared was happening.

The next thing I tried to get him moving was a hog slapper. A hog slapper is a small pole like aid with a handle on one end and two pieces of leather on the other end. When you slap the leather end against your boots it makes a loud slapping sound.

It was the loud slapping sound I was hoping would motivate the horse to move. Heres what happened.

Nothing.

The horse didnt take any steps forward to get away from it. It scared him a little the first two or three times I slapped it on my boot, but thats all it did.

Frustrated and bewildered I wasnt sure what to do next.

I began to analyze the situation. I knew the tap with the whip wasnt working so I didnt need to repeat trying it. I knew the hog slapper didnt work so I didnt need to repeat that either.

So I asked myself, "What can I use to motivate this horse to move"

I got the answer from Jesse Beery.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800s, taught training a horse to drive in much the same way I do it. Even the tap on the rear end with the whip is the same.

In teaching a horse to overcome fears and desensitizing him to sounds, Beery prescribes using metal bowls strung together like a wind chime on rope. These bowls make quite a racket when you shake them. Used as Beery describes, they are extremely effective in horse training.

So I thought these noise makers would motivate my horse to move. After all, they are loud and obnoxious when they clank together and make noise.

So I tacked up the horse, grabbed my noise maker, and tried again.

As I was fumbling with the lines and the noise maker trying to get situated, I nearly dropped the noise maker and it made a pretty good racket. Almost the second it rattled, the horse moved away from it.

Immediately I had a glimmer of hope that this was my answer.

So I tried it all again. I gave a slight pull on the left line, I then said "get up", and then I rattled the bowls.

The result

Nothing except the horse raising his head and looking behind him a little. But I knew that meant I was getting his attention.

So I tried it again.

This time, he took about 3 steps forward and stopped. I was thrilled. I walked up to him and rewarded him with a caress.

Then I stepped back and did it again.

It wasnt long before I didnt have to use my noise maker anymore. All I had to do was say "get up" and hed move. Not only did he move, he moved with energy.

Although this horse was very frustrating I must admit I am grateful to him. Why Because he taught me valuable lessons.

The first lesson I relearned was patience.

The second lesson was that not everything will work on the same way on every horse. This was a lesson I already knew but it was reinforced.

The third lesson learned was to reexamine what I knew about horses and use that knowledge to get him doing what I needed him to do. Thats why I tried the noise maker.

I knew certain noises frighten horses so I decided to manipulate his fear with the noise maker. I also knew to be careful not to terrorize him. After all, you want to use as little of that kind of motivation as possible. Only use what is just enough.

Fourth, he taught me to keep looking for an answer because one exists even though I didnt know it at the time.

Fifth, if I ever run across another horse thats hard to motivate to move, then I will pull out my noise makers because it worked before.

As I patted myself on the back for coming up with the noise maker idea I was actually feeling grateful for having such a difficult horse. I realized having a difficult horse was a great teacher to me - and I have absolutely loved having difficult horses since.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

It can be enormously frightening to be on a bucking horse. If youre a novice rider, a bucking horse can almost force you to give up the "owning a horse" dream. But it doesnt have to be that way.

Ive read where people who can ride a bucking horse feel theyre a good rider. That may be. But it doesnt mean theyre good at training. And training is what we want to do.

Preventing bucking begins when the horse is a colt. One must go to every extent in his training so he wont be inclined to buck - and that includes preventing bucking if he tries.

Naturally, that doesnt help you if your horse bucks already. Thus, if your horse bucks then the question is whether or not it is solvable. The answer is: Usually.

The first thing to do is try and figure out why he bucks. This may be done by trying to eliminate the causes.

As a for instance, one of the most common causes of bucking is that the rider punishes the horses mouth without knowing it. Also, he may be giving the horse conflicting aids. For instance, the rider may boot his horse forward and jerk on the reins to slow him down. Then the rider jerks his head around to turn him. As the horse fights this the rider gets mad and boots him hard again.

Finally, the horse bucks. Why Because hes absolutely frustrated.

Thus, fixing your riding habits to ones that make sense and are thoughtful for your horse will solve that problem. If youre a novice rider then riding lessons will help you immensely.

As you ride, ride relaxed. Focus on the feel of your horse. Give him the aid or signal to do what you want. Dont over exaggerate it. Give just enough signal to get him doing what you want then let it be.

If you plan to put him into a lope from a walk or trot, or vice versa, then think ahead and do it in a relaxed fluid manner. Dont surprise or startle your horse. Keep him relaxed. A relaxed horse is not going to buck.

Another solution may be changing bits. If you are using a curb bit perhaps you should try going to a snaffle. A snaffle is easier on a horses mouth. It will still maintain contact with your horse and help him relax.

Another common time a horse bucks is when the rider asks the horse to canter or lope. A horse will sometimes buck in the canter because its natural for him to. It could also happen if the rider signals his horse too suddenly and severely in asking for the canter.

You see, a lot of people think they have to boot their horse hard to get the canter- - and when they do, they jerk on the horses mouth when they boot him. Or, the rider may ride with loose reins so the horse will canter and then jerk his mouth to try and slow the horse down right when he begins cantering.

I dont know if you spotted it yet but whats happening here is that the horse is getting confused. Not only that, its also hurting the horse.

After all, put yourself in your horses place. If you were asked to canter and the second you did you felt a painful jerk on your mouth...wouldnt you be a little upset And if it happened every time, wouldnt you think to yourself, "I gotta get this jerk off my back - hes killin me!"

Now lets say you dont know why your horse is bucking. Lets assume your riding habits are good and your horse bucks anyway.

Here are some helpful suggestions.

First, if your horse bucks you then it is crucial you dont stop him. If you do, he learns that if he wants to stop all he has to do is buck. Very quickly, youll have a smart horse who knows that to stop he only has to buck.

So, instead of stopping, do this.

First, brace your arms against your body yet keep them relaxed and keep contact with your horse. While doing this, lean back and drive your horse to go forward. Making a horse go forward is a big horse training secret to help you get your horses cooperation and obedience.

Because you brace your arms, it makes your horses head go up and driving him forward makes his attempts at bucking hard enough hell quit trying to buck. The point is the horse cannot buck when he is moving forward with energy.

The next step is you must continue moving your horse forward with energy using your seat and legs until he quits trying to buck - be sure to control his speed.

Sometimes its necessary to hold your horses head up to stop the bucking while moving him forward. If you need to do that then be sure not to pull his head back. Instead pull it up. You do that by extending your arms and pull up.

If you have a horse that bucks whenever he feels like it then he should be doubled. The trick is to do it on the first buck if you can. Double him then boot him out of it with energy. Then double him the other way and boot him out of it and put him in a trot and make him keep moving.

Remember the horse must slow down to buck. If you can tell your horse is slowing down and getting ready to buck then boot him forward and pick up the pace.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beerys horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

The naked truth of person is that we are still slaves to our mind; means we are still a "bounded slaves" to our mind. The use of mind in constructive way or in some stepping-stone turning way is still not being revealed by human being. This is the only catalyst which leads to become the " the so called body and the body holder" famous and illustrious and it is the same catalyst which can lead to other floating vices right across us.

This is very true and very believable that human brain is actually a size of his/her right fist but the same hand can lead to actions like the actions taken by some famous politicians and the same hand can lead to charity or some misconduct.

How many of us ever tried to take control of our mind and thereafter the body How many of us are very independent of all the commands to follow as given by our mind irrespective of its consequences

The controlling of mind and body leads to some great results if applied correctly. Yes, we can feel and hear that there are two voices inside human being one of God-Angel and one of Satan. We can reach out to any voice, which is at our discretion. Believed that the first voice is the voice of God. The normal outburst and a clash between these two voice is at young age only where new definitions and terms are being embedded into ones mind and which due vary from persons to person. The basic outlook towards life and the career do makes its impression at this age only.

The Rat race to follow and the race to make money any how do comes to all the humans whereas; the whole point revolves around the way to make some money. Turn any biography and see that the zeal to make some thing in life or that fire to do something comes at the young age only. So this crucial stage of life cannot be neglected by humans-parents and guardians. As one of the famous writer has said " beware that you should be alert about what books you read" rather the same categorically goes for humans too that what clouds of thoughts and patters a young human gets from his surrounding, the moudling shape is thus designed in the mind.

Its very easy to comment and add a quoting line to the fallen pillar that the base of that pillar was not strong whereas; making that pillar stand erect firmly would make any body sweat from teeth.

To be continued….. Vinay Ghimiray

About The Author

Working as a Analyst with slightly creative bent of mind in Metaphysical poetry and an ardent fan of Dale Carnegie and Vincent Peale. gvin19@indiatimes.com

I get a lot of horse training questions about stopping a horse from kicking. The kicking habits of these horses range from the horse kicking at virtually anyone to kicking at only the husbands.

It's a daunting problem that lots of people have no idea how to cure. That being so, I want to share some insight to horses kicking.

First I want to relate some causes of horses starting in the habit of kicking. Because a horse kicks is no reason to think he is naturally bad or unmanageable. I don't think there is a horse alive that is "naturally" vicious. In fact, they're made that way due to bad management or ignorant handlers.

Admittedly, there are some horses that inherit the characteristics of their ancestors. But one should never start to break a horse without first taking into consideration the nature, disposition, and understanding of a horse.

For instance, there are some horses that are naturally predisposed to have a "not so good" disposition. There are certain physical characteristics you can spot on a horse that indicate what his disposition is like.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, was brilliant at deciphering a horse's disposition. He even wrote extensively about how to do it. You can read about it at http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm.

Anyway, now we can handle the horse according to its disposition. We can get it very nearly equal with a good dispositioned horse. All the difference in the world is due to the management and training of the colt. A horse with a "not so good' disposition will require more patience and thorough work.

All animals in nature have a self defense of some sort. A horse's self defense is kicking. After all, if you work with a horse that gets badly excited by some cause (such as ropes or chains coming in contact with his legs and those parts of his body aren't broken) his first inclination is to kick it out of the way.

The trick is to break a horse in a way that the habit never occurs in the first place. Too many people think a lesson will be enough to educate the horse to be ready to go. But if you're driving your horse and he gets caught under the tail or the cross pieces of the shaft touch his quarters...and those parts are unbroken, it would likely frighten and excite him enough to cause him to kick.

And the worse part is this: Once started, there is an increased inclination to go on kicking until confirmed in the habit.

So the cure is prevention. You must make all parts of his body submissive to sensitivity of his extremities. One way to do this is using a technique called poling. Essentially, you take a light pole and start at a horse's nose, rub it over the mane, back, belly, quarters, and sensitive parts of the body, until all muscles become relaxed.

But what if you have a horse confirmed in the habit of kicking?

If that's the case, I can give you three possible answers.

One is to sell the horse. If you feel it's not fixable then it's not a good idea to keep the horse around. You're going to get severely injured if you're not extra careful.

Two, get a professional trainer to help you. A trainer will charge anywhere from $400.00 per month to $900 per month. Is that worth it to get your horse to stop kicking? Only you can decide.

Third, you can learn to do it yourself. There are solutions out there that are pretty good. Jesse Beery, which I mentioned earlier, has a permanent solution to stop it.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

About the Author

Article Courtesy of HydroponicSearch.com - The Agriculture Search Engine & Educational Community.

COLFAX, WISCONSIN — Did you know that since 1969, the United States has lost 85 percent of its dairy farms. And did you know that since 1969, Wisconsin has lost nearly 70 percent of its dairy farms

"I lived away from my hometown in west central Wisconsin for 15 years. When I returned in the mid 1990s, I expected to be living in a farming community again. Instead, I discovered that many of the small family dairy farms like the one where I grew up had disappeared" said LeAnn R. Ralph, author of the books Christmas in Dairyland True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm August 2003 and Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam October 2004.

Figures from the Census of Agriculture and from the American Farm Bureau Federation indicate that in 1969 more than a half a million dairy farms operated in the United States, but by the year 2000, only 83,000 dairy farms remained. And according to statistics from the U.S. Census of Agriculture, during the last three decades of the twentieth century, Wisconsin went from 66,000 dairy farms down to 20,000 dairy farms.

"Thats why I decided to write stories about growing up on a dairy farm. Our farm was home-steaded by my Norwegian great-grandfather in the late 1800s, but small family farms are a thing of the past. They have pretty much disappeared from the landscape," Ralph said.

"My dad milked 20 cows and knew all of them by name. Nowadays the trend is toward corporate farms that milk hundreds of cows," she said.

Ralphs new book, Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam 192 pages; $13.95; ISBN 1-59113-592-3 is a collection of 20 true stories that took place on her familys farm 40 years ago. Story titles include "Taking the Bull by the Horns," "Spring Cleaning," "A Different Sort of Cow," "Dads Favorite Recipe," "Popsicle Blues," "On Top of the World," and "Better Butter."

According to Midwest Book Review, Ralphs first book, Christmas In Dairyland: True Stories From A Wisconsin Farm "is a heartwarming anthology of true anecdotes of rural life on a Wisconsin dairy farm. Even though Wisconsin is still known as Americas Dairyland, life on a family homestead is fast being replaced by corporate agribusiness, and the memories treasured in Christmas In Dairyland are quickly becoming unique milestones of an era needing to be preserved in thought and print for the sake of future generations. Christmas In Dairyland is simply wonderful reading and is a must for all Wisconsin public library collections."

Ralph earned a Bachelor of Arts in English with a writing emphasis from the University of Wisconsin-Whitewater and also earned a Master of Arts in Teaching from UW-Whitewater. She worked as a newspaper reporter for nine years and also has taught English at a boys boarding school. She is the editor of the Wisconsin Regional Writer the quarterly publication of the Wisconsin Regional Writers Assoc..

Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam and Christmas in Dairyland True Stories from a Wisconsin Farmare available through Barnes & Noble and Amazon.com. For more information or to order the books, visit www.ruralroute2.com or call LeAnn at 715 962-3368.

Contact Information:

LeAnn R. Ralph; E6689 970th Ave.; Colfax, WI 54730; 715 962-3368 e-mail: bigpines@ruralroute2.com

About The Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books "Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam" and "Christmas in Dairyland." http://ruralroute2.com bigpines@ruralroute2.com

Unless youve been trapped in a meat locker since December, youre no doubt aware that Mad Cow Disease has been detected in the US herd. Given that "bovine spongiform encephalopathy" is tougher on the mouth than one of the blow-torched steaks we get at Billys House of Meat and Welding Supplies, well stick with the short form of the disease name---BSE.

The disease agent responsible for BSE is the prion, and it is unaffected by the heat of cooking or by irradiation. So forget about cooking your steak to a cinder before you eat it---that wont be any protection and would be very upsetting to the Association of Beef Cooking Snobs.

Scientists say that the prion spreads between cows via the animal byproducts in their feed. The US Department of Agriculture is implementing new regulations that will reduce the amount of animal byproducts going into cattle feed, but indications are that there will still be a few loopholes in the rules.

Some people may just rely on the new USDA rules and hope for the best, but others may prefer to become choosier shoppers. There are a lot of different labels applied to beef these days, so lets go through what they mean under rules set by the US Department of Agriculture and talk about how they do or do not relate to BSE.

Organic --- The organic label does apply to beef and has the backing of a legal standard and a certification system. In the case of beef, organic means that the animal 1 has undergone no genetic modification; 2 was fed grain that was not genetically modified and was free of chemical pesticides, fertilizers, animal byproducts and other adulterants; 3 was not treated with antibiotics, growth hormones, or chemical pesticides. Animals raised for organic meat must also have access to the outdoors, though that doesnt necessarily mean that they spend the majority of their time roaming the open grasslands.

Free Range --- This label is still mostly ungoverned by a legal standard and shouldnt be relied on to determine whether the cow actually spent most of its time on the open plains eating grass or that it ate any particular type of feed. "Free Range" is sometimes also called "free roaming."

Natural --- This is another mostly meaningless term. As the USDA puts it: "All fresh meat qualifies as natural." Meat labeled "natural" 1 cannot contain any artificial flavor or flavoring, coloring ingredient, chemical preservative, or any other artificial or synthetic ingredient; and 2 can only be minimally processed ground, for example. The USDA requires that meat packages labeled "natural" also include a statement clarifying the use of the term such as "no added coloring". In any event, animal byproducts are not specifically prohibited in the feed of cows raised for "natural" beef though some beef labeled natural may indeed be free of animal byproducts.

Grass Fed --- Youd think that any package of beef labeled "Grass Fed" would mean that the cow ate only grass. But given that all cows eat grass at least in the early stages of their lives, shady dealers could legally apply the "Grass Fed" label to beef from normal feed-lot cattle, which usually get a corn-based feed mix that contains animal byproducts. This makes it necessary for you to ensure the label says "100% Grass Fed," "Grass Fed Only" or something similar that does not leave any loopholes. Beef raised only on grass may be slightly less tender than "normal" beef, but it has less overall fat, less saturated fat, higher vitamin A content, and more of the omega-3 fatty acids that help maintain healthy cells in your body. Beef that is 100% grass-fed may or may not be organic---all requirements under the organic standard would still have to be met for "100% grass fed" beef to be labeled organic.

No Antibiotics/No Hormones --- Beef with either of these labels must be from a cow that was raised without the use of antibiotics or synthetic hormones over its entire lifetime. While both of these characteristics are desirable in your package of beef, neither has any bearing on BSE.

No Animal Byproducts --- The regulations behind this label are not as strong as for the organic standard, but its reasonable to assume that the label means what it says, that no animal byproducts were used in the feed of the cows.

Irradiation --- Meat that has been irradiated to reduce bacteria levels must be labeled "Treated by Irradiation" or "Treated with Radiation." However, the irradiation levels used on beef do not deactivate the BSE disease agent.

Prime, Choice, and Select --- These USDA grades are a subjective measure of quality and imply nothing about how the cow was raised or whether the cows feed was free of animal byproducts.

Well, thats a lot of things to remember, so here are the three labels you really want to look for when you shop for beef: a Organic, b 100% Grass Fed, and/or c No Animal Byproducts. Beef with any one of these labels is virtually guaranteed to be free of BSE problems. Cows raised under the standards required for the organic and 100% grass fed labels yield environmental benefits too compared to regular beef production.

Remember that were not just talking about steaks and burgers as a potential source of BSE exposure. Processed beef products, including beef hotdogs, sausage, and meat sauce, also have the potential to contain BSE-contaminated beef. Granted, it is unlikely there would be such a problem, but since beef is available that has been raised in a way that virtually eliminates any BSE possibilities, why take any chance And if the thought of eating ANY beef these days make you nearly have a cow, try soy-based beef alternatives---theyre surprisingly tasty and beef-like these days.

No matter what your beefy fare, just remember what Mom said---"chew every bite 20 times"---and youll be able to impress your friends with your rippling mandible muscles!

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About The Author

Mark is a writer, financial analyst, web developer, environmentalist, and, as necessary, chef and janitor. Grinning Planet is an expression of Marks enthusiasm for all things humorous and green, as well as a psychotic desire to work himself half-to-death. Hobbies include health foods, music, getting frustrated over politics, and occasionally lecturing the TV set on how uncreative it is. mailto:contact@grinningplanet.com